Author 




Title 



Imprint. 



76- t7372-2 O^O 



• E'ShEiTEEODQ 



SSailDNOD JO AMVHan 



IIIIMillllllllllllllllllllHIIIIIHIinilllllllllllllllltlillUIIIIIIIIUIIIIIIIIIIHIIIlnilll 




The Last /ind Pest Book" 



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The 

Brainerd & Armstrong 

Company. 



price, 5eij Seijts. | 



UIIMUMHIIinMMIIIItiniNinilintlHHmilltUUIHIIIIIIHIIIIUMinilllllUiMUItllllHIllllliHmillllltlHNIHHIHIUINHIIMMMIIMIMNIHINIMIHNIHIINMMINlMaR 



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AST COLOR 



fH IB iK 



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*H sK IH ffi 



ASn JILKJ 



Made in the foUowing 
lilies: 



HEAVY EMBROIDERY OR 

ENGLISH TWISTED, 
ROPE SILK, 

ETCHING OR OUTLINE, 
FILO AND 

ROMAN FLOSS. 




THIS CUT REPRESENTS A 
H OZ. BUNCH OF 



irainerd & Slrmstrong's 



We are the first silk manufacturers in America who have succeeded in dyeing 
absolutely fast colors in silks for Embroidering, and we have fitted up at great ex- 
pense, in order to dye by our exclusive processes, nearly every shade, and thus give 
the public the benefit of our discoveries. 

These Fast Color Silks are made of the finest stock, have a fine lustre, and are 
warranted to stand exposure to light and washing in warm water with pure soap 
without fading. Every skein has our guarantee tag attached. 

Ask your Storekeeper for 

Brainerd & Arm strong's 

Fast Color Wash Silks, 



an!d if unable to' procure it, please nbtify us by mail. 

THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO 



"Tire Lskjt a^^ Seyt jB^olc" 




y 






5*?^ Offices : 

r^ • J r» A 625 Broadway, New York. 

liraiperd y Hr^St:r09(5 621 Market St., Philadelphia. 

120 Kingston St., Boston, IVIass. 
Pompa py . 5 Hanover St., Baltimore, Md. 

Toronto, Canada. 



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Entered according to act of Congress, in the year t8q?, by Erainerd & Armstrong; 
in 'he office of t^^e Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



INDEX. 



Preface 

Introductory . 

Knitting Silks and How they Difter 

Victoria Knitting Silk 

Scale for Socks and Stockings 

Various Stitches — Knitting . 

Things Worth Knowing 

Appropriate and Useful Presents 

Abbreviations and Explanations of Terms 

Child's and Lady's Silk Stockings 

Gentleman's Silk Sock 

Lady's Knitted Undervest 

Infant's Long Silk Shirt 

Infant's Boot . 

Wristers — Infant's Crocheted Socks 

Infant's Mittens 

Lady's Fancy Mitten . 

Lady's Jersey Mitten — Wristers 

Knitted Gloves for Gentlemen 

Knee Warmers — Fancy Pattern 

New and Charming Stitches — Knot Stitch 

Roll Stitch— Daisy 

Rose Stitch— Roll Picot Stitch 

Scarf Wheel . 

Guipure Wheel 

Passementerie Wheel 

Scarf Wheel . 

Chatalaine Chain 

Daisy Lace 

Black Crocheted Beaded Bag 

Long Crochet Purse . 

Baltimore Crocheted Tie 





5 




6 




7 




8 




9 




10 




II 




12 




13 




14 




15 




16 




17 




18 




19 


20, 


21 


02- 


-24 




25 




26 




27 


28, 


29 




30 




31 


32, 


33 


34. 


35 


36. 


37 


38, 


39 


40 


41 


42 


-44 


45. 


46 




47 


48, 


49 



Index. 



Crocheted Umbrella Case 

Tobacco Bag . 

Work Bag 

Hair Receiver 

Crochet Rings 

Card and Flower Basket 

Sleeve Holder — Burnt Match Receiver — Needle Book 

Photograph Holder — Scissors Chatalaine — Postal Card Case 

Mouchoir Case — Scarf Wheel — Dress Trimmings 

Twine Bag — Spool Bag 

Tennis Belt 

Crocheted Tassel 

Mountmellick Work . 

Spray of Blackberries and Leaves 

Maiden Hair Fern 

Passion Flowers and Leaves 

Crocheted Suspenders 

Crocheted Fan Tidy — Silk Slippers — Lamp 

Crocheted Handkerchief Case 

Fancy Work made with Silk — Face Figured 

Ascot Scarf 

Crochet Garters 

Illustrated Embroidery Stitches (Thirty-five 

Proper Shades in Embroidery 

All-over Designs 

Ecclesiastical Designs 



Shade 



Terrv and Art Satin 



Illustrations) 



PAGE 


49 


50. 51 


51 


52 


53 


54 


55 


56 


57 


58 


59 


60 


61 


62 


63 


64,65 


66 


67,68 


69 


70 


71 


72 


73-84 


85 


86,87 




Preface, 



It is with great pleasure that we place before the public our seventh 
edition of Art Needlework on Rules and Designs for Knitting and 
Embroidery. 

We have aimed, and think succeeded, in making each number an 
improvement on the previous one, and in this " Last and Best" we give 
all that care and expense can obtain. Nothing has been spared to make 
it all that an experienced worker in silks could want, and at the same time 
the directions are so plain and so concise that the novice in thio fascinat- 
ing work need not fear to attempt them. 

By reason of their excellence, many of our old designs have been 
retained ; but where improvement has been possible, new Rules and new 
Patterns are given, and the number of these far exceeds the old. 



Errors axd Omissions. 



We shall esteem it a favor if any lady will write us and state the 
omissions or mistakes of any kind found in our rules or other printed 
matter. 

We are always pleased to get new rules, designs and new ideas of 
any kind, either in knitting, crocheting or embroidery. 

The Braixerd & Armstrong Co., 

621 Market Street, Philadelphia. 



INTRODUCTORY. 



*HE origin of embroidery, knitting and crocheting is lost in antiq- 
uity, and from the earhest times these have all been the amuse- 
ment of women of leisure, and the occupation of those whose 
skillful fingers must be used to bring in financial returns for 
practical purposes. Never has this work been carried to such an extent, 
nor have there been as many beautiful materials to work with, as at the 
present day. 

Curiosity might lead one to make many inquiries concerning what 
the ancients used for needles, and what they found for thread ; but of 
one thing we are quite certain, namely, the thread was something vastly 
inferior to the Brainerd & Armstrong silk, so popular with the present 
generation. Personally we propose to withdraw from competition with 
woman on needle-work, but in doing so we make one modest little 
request: namely, that we be allowed to furnish the silk. 

To this end we have built at New London, Conn., what is said to be 
the best arranged, most complete silk-thread fa6lory in this country ; 
and right here we give a cordial invitation to all passing through New 
London to visit our fadlory (only three squares from the depot), and see 
all the latest improved machinery for making the " Best in the World " 
spool silk. Whether a patron of our silk or not, you will receive a gen- 
uine and hearty welcome, and be shown all the processes through 
which the silk passes. If you are a patron (we hope so), you may be 
able to find somewhere in that beautiful fadlory a brick which your 
patronage has helped us to pay for ; and this, we hope, may give to it an 
added charm to your eyes. 

The Brainerd & Armstrong Company. 



Knitting Silks and How ttiey Differ. 



THE Most Desirable brands to Purchase 

I^^EARLY all silk manufacflurers now make more or lesc of silk 

I '£=, branded " Knitting Silk ;" and while that made by each may in 

some respecfls differ, it naturally follows that those manufa(?turers 

who devote special thought, study and labor to the subje(n;, 

succeed the best. 

Knitting silks differ in three important respecfls : 

1. In the raw material used. 

2. In the slackness or tightness of the twist. 

3. In the dyes used and process of dyeing. 

Courtesy to others, and a due regard for modesty, prevents us from 
criticising other goods. No one can help seeing, however, that not 
only a choice may be exercised, but it calls for study, care and experi- 
ence to selecfl the best stock, the best twist, and the best process of dye- 
ing to make "The Best Knitting Siik." 

Without going into too many tiresome details concerning raw 
material, twist and dyes, we will state that, after four years of careful 
observation and experience, we have adopted two brands representing 
tv;o grades of silk. 

The one known as the Brain- 
erd & Armstrong Brand is pre- 
pared by a combing process which 
produces a"ooft finish," uniform 
size, more pliable, easier to knit, 
softer to the feet, and in general 
appearance more like silk yarn. 

The lustre is not so brilliant in 
the ball, nor during the process 01" 
knitting, but it seems to improve 
with every successive washing, and 
by adual test has been found to 
outwear any other grade of good-, 

This silk requires special ma- ^^^^ ^^ 

chinery of an expensive kind only made m Europrand's^'ome manu- 
faaurersm this country who have not the machinery and cannot make 
the goods call It "spun silk" and attempt to decry its merits; but in 
Europe this grade of silk has virtually superseded all others for knitting 
purposes, and the ladies in our country have learned its superiority while 
abroad, and will insist on having it when they purchase. 

For stockings nothing can excel the above brand. 




BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG'S 



The Bkainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




"Victoria Knitting Silk" 

is the name of our new brand. It 
is often remarked of work done 
with this silk that "it is fit for a 
queen," so we deemed the name 
"Victoria" as not inappropriate 
for these goods. Tliey are noted 
for great lustre and brilliancy, be- 
ing made from the choicest long 
fibre of reeled cocoons. 

This brand is particularly 
adapted to crocheting, fancy work, 
knitting purposes, baby caps, sacks, 

laces, fringes for macreme work 

and' for embroidery. Owing to its " high lustre ■' silk. 

brilliancy some prefer it for stockings. We find an increasing demand 
for this brand, which may perhaps be attributed to the fa6l, that ladies 
who once try it for embroidery, or for knitting little fancy articles of 
dress, are greatly pleased with the lustrous efTe6l. 

The Dyeing of all our Knitting Silks is made a very import- 
ant matter — a matter- of careful study, to get dyes pure and harmless, 
colors that 7c/// stand washing, and tints both rich and delicate. Every- 
thing that goes out under either one of our brands, we will guarantee to 
be the best that can be made in all these respefts. 

As these pages go to press, word comes to us from our facflory at 
New London, Conn., that our prolonged study and experiment has 
resulted in discovering a new process of dyeing, which will hereafter give 
us extraordinarily fast colors in all our knitting silk shades. Heretofore, 
we could only obtain moderately fast colors in a few shades that had to 
be washed carefully in lukewarm water. Now we can produce shades 
that will stand hot water and soap with no perceptible fading or washing 
out. It bids fair to prove one of the greatest discoveries in dyeing the 
world has ever made. 

Figures and letters worked on the whitest linen may be washed 
with soap and water without injuring the color of the silk. 

Our new goods dyed with this new process, will have a special label 
on them, guaranteeing the dye; and the additional cost of these goods 
will only be a few cents on each ball. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



Scale for Socks and Stockings. 

^HE following table will be found of service to knitters: 

The narrowings in the leg have uniformly five plain rounds 
between, and those for the toes are as follows : Two decreasing 
with 3 rounds between, 2 with 2 rounds, 2 with i round, and 
then every round till the toe is cast off. 

Socks. 



Size. 


Slitches 
cast on. 


Rounds 
to heel. 


Stitches 
for heel. 


Rows 
of heel. 


Rounds of foot 
before narrowing. 


ISt 
2d 

3d 


34-34-35 
38-38-39 
42-42-43 


120 
130 
142 


49 

59 . 
65 


38 
40 

45 


90 
105 
126 



STOCKINGS. 



ISt 

2d 
3d 
4th 



Stitches 
cast on. 



33-33-33 
36-36-37 
44-44-45 
58-58-59 



Rounds Narrow 
to nar. in leg. 



156 — 13 
200 — 14 



Rounds 
in ankle. 



Stitches 
for heel. 



Rows 
in heel. 



SCALE OF MEASUREMENT IN INCHES. 



Socks and Stockings. 



Sock for child of four, . . 

Sock, second size, 

Sock for boy of nine, .... 
Sock for boy c f twelve, . . . 
Sock for boy of fifteen, .... 

Man's sock, ist size, 

Man's sock, zd size, 

Man's sock, 3d size, ... 
Stocking for child of 5 years, . 
Stocking for child of 7 years, . 
Stocking for child of 9 years, . 
StockiDg fir child of 11 years. 
Woman's stocking, 1st size, . 
Woman's stocking, 2d size, . . 
Man's stocking, 



S'X 



1214 
13 

12j^ 



S" > Si 



5 



14 
16 
17 
21^ 

2l3.i 






2% 

3 
3 



2^ 

3'X 



Rounds in 
foot to toe. 



6 

6K 
8 
954 



loK 

6% 
8 

10 

ii'X 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Various Stitches — Knitting. 

Pttrling or seaming is in reality knitting backwards, as the stitch is taken up in a 
contrary direction from plain knitting. Before beginning to purl, the thread must be brought 
in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the thread is passed back after the puri 
stitch is made. 

Increasing, or making a stitch, is done by throwing the thread once round the 
needle, and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch. 

Decreasing is done in two ways : Firstly, taking up two stitches and knitting them 
together as one ; secondly, by taking up a stitch without knitting it. called slipping, then by 
knitting the following stitch in the usual way, and then slipping the first (unknitted) over the 
second (knitted). Wlien it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed thus: Slip 
•ne, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted stitch over the two knitted together. 

Casting off stitches, the operation by which a piece of knitting is finished, is done by 
knitting two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slipping the first, knitted over the second. 
This is continued to the end of the row. 'n finishing off a piece of work, the casting off must 
be done very loosely, otherwise it will be much tighter than the other rows of knitting. 

Ribbed- stitch is made by knitting and purling alternate groups of stitches. There may 
be one stitch or more in each group. 

C/tn*H-s<t*c/t was much used for the knitted quilts, so much affected by knitters and 
housekeepers of an earlier period. For the couvre-pieds, or sofa blankets, now in vogue, it 
will be found most effective, especially if each successive row be knitted in carefully harmonized 
or contrasted colors. It requires three needles. 

The mode of knitting is as follows : Set on thirteen stitches, knit two plain rows, * knit 
three stitches, purl seven, knit the last three. Knit the next row plain. Repeat from * until 
sixteen rows have been knitted from * inclusive. Now knit three stitches plain, take off the 
next four upon the third needle ; knit the next three from behind the third needle, so as 
to entirely miss it, drawing the wool very tight, so as to connect the two needles closely 
together. Then knit the four stitches of the third needle, completing the twist. Knit the 
remaining three and begin to form a fresh pattern by knitting three stitches, purling seven, 
knitting three, as before, for sixteen rows. Then twist again, as above. 

Open hetn is one of the old stitches, and is suitable for fine needles and silk. 

Set on any number of stitches that is divisible by four. Slip the first stitch of each row, 
knit the second, put the silk over the needle to make a stitch, knit two together, repeat from * 
to the end of the row. All the rows are knitted exactly the same as this one, but the whole 
pattern depends on the number of stitches being divisible by four. The pattern is very simple 
and very pretty, forming a kind of herring-bone stitch in alternate rows and solid knitting. 

Double knitting is equally simple, and is very useful for socks, shawls, and the cuffs 
of warm winter mittens. The stitches tor double knitting must be even in number. Knit a 
stitch, T. T. O. once, slip a stitch off without knitting it, knit a stitch, T. T. O. once, and so 
on through the whole of the row. The reason for having an even number of stitches is that the 
stitch that is knitted in one row must be slipped in the next. 

Honey comb-stitch, so called because it forms a series of hexagons, is done as follows : 
Knit the first stitch, put the silk over the needle to make a loop, knit two stitches together. 
Continue making a loop and knitting two stitches together till the row is completed. Then 
knit a row of plain knitting, another row of honeycomb-stitch, and then one of plain knitting. 
Mittens knitted with this stitch in fine purse silk look very well. 

French-stitch makes a pretty kind of fancy rib ; it also is very simple. Cast on the 
stitches in fours, leaving two over. These two (one at each side of the row) form a strong 
edge, resembling chain-stitch in crochet. Purl the first stitch, put the thread back, * knit two 
stitches together, make a stitch by putting the thread over the needle, knit a stitch, T T. O 
once, purl a stitch, repeat from *. At the end of each row, put the thread back and knit the 
last stitch. 

Crotv's-foot-atitch is very effective, forming a series of thick stitches alternately with 
a series of open work. Set up any number of stitches divisible by three, with one over. After 
having knitted one plain row, begin the pattern as fallows : Knit the first stitch, • make a 
stitch, slip a stitch, knit two plain stitches, pass the slipped stitch over the two plain ones, 
icpcat from *. Purl the whole of the next row. 



K 



WITTll^ AND dt^OdHETIMIJ 

WITH 

W01(^TED AMD WOOLEH YARH^. 



German Knitting Yarns, 

Saxonies, 

Spanish, 

Floss, 

Shetland, 

Germantowns. 




If you. want 
THE BEST 

Yoi_i must tj.se 

Flei^hei''^ (JeMaq I^nittiing Worsted. 

The only Knitting Worsted bearing a NATIONAL reputation. 

I. Quality. II. Evenness. III. Elasticity. IV. Durability. 

And more yards to the pound by 33% than 

any other brand. 



A Letter You Should Read ! 



Gentlemen : — About a month ago I wrote you, enclosing stamps for a 
reply, and for the little books you offer, " Art and Fancy Work " and " Suc- 
cessful Home Dyeing." 

The substance of my letter was that I was engaged in art needle work, 
and was greatly hampered from lack of sufficient shades in the silks I was 
able to procure, and my object in writing to yon was to ask if your dyes 
would color pure silk floss so that it would bear careful washing, the same 
as the best wash silks do. I grew so desperate for want of some shades I 
could not procure that I got some Diamond Dyes and began experimenting, 
usincr white filo-floss and coloring it the required tints and then washing it 
and proving the colors fast. The result was so satisfactory that I am 
greatly delighted; it seems as though a new field was opened up in my work. 

I have just completed a sixteen dollar centrepiece, on which I used sev- 
eral shades colored with Diamond Dyes, and have washed the piece and 
find those silks which I colored just as fast as the others, said to be Asiatic 
dyes. The idea has occurred to me that perhaps I could make arrangements 
with you to prepare an exhibit for the World's Fair of first-class needle 
work, every thread of it colored by myself with Diamond Dyes, If you 
care to consider the proposition at all, I will send you for inspection a piece 
of my work, so you can see for yourselves that it is really of the highest 
order, and I can give you satisfactory references as to my integrity, etc., 
among others a lady in your own city. I have experimented enough with 
the dyes to be satisfied that, if you desire it, I can get up a grand display. 

To place before the eyes of all the women who will go to the \N'orld's 
Fair an exhibition of beautiful work, and make it known that every shade 
of the silks and also fabrics, excepting the pieces worked on linen, were not 
only colored with the Diamond Dyes, but were done by one entirely inex- 
perienced in dyeing heretofore, and that all the work done on linen had 
stood the test of soap and water, would be to place Diamond Dyes in a new 
light before the majority of the beholders and would make an impression 
that would never be forgotten. 

Unless your arrangements are already made for your exhibit, I hope you 
will give me a chance to show you what I can do. 

Very respectfully, 

ivlrs. k. p. oaulx, 

KuoxviUe, 111., June 13. 1893. 



To WELLS, RICHARDSON & CO. 

Burlington. Vt. 



We will send copies of our Ixioks free to any address. Wells, 
Richardson & Co. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. Ii 



Things Worth Knowing. 




How TO Wash Silk Knit articles. 

JSSOLVE a moderate amount of white Castile soap in lukewarm 
water. Squeeze and press the water through the articles. Rub 
as little as possible the deepest stains. Rinse thoroughly in 
clear, cold water. Extracfl the water by rolling and twisting in 
a coarse, heavy towel. Stretch into good form, and dry without ex- 
posure to the sun. To add lustre, take a soft, dry piece of flannel, and 
rub in one direction when the article is nearly dry. Never use a hot iron 
unless the article is folded inside of another thick cloth. A little ox-gall 
is sometimes used to prevent colors running. Our new discoveries in 
dyeing enable us to dye colors that may be thoroughly washed without 
any bad results, even if these precautions are not followed. All our 
goods have a guarantee wash label wrapper around every spool. 

*4f*** ***** 

Never join the ends >f thread in knitting by tying a knot. 
Lap the ends three inches or more together, and knit the distance with a 
double thread, leaving both ends on the wrong side. 
********** 

HOW TO STRETCH FINISHED EMBROIDERY. 

When the work is finished it will be found that it has become much 
drawn and puckered. To remedy this a clean cloth must be wetted in 
clear cold water, wring it out tightly, and place it on a board or table ; 
then put the work upon it, face upwards. With drawing or other pins 
pin out the work, and strain it as much as possible ; leave it for twelve 
hours in dry weather, and longer in damp weather. If it has been 
properly stretched, it will be perfe6lly smooth when taken off the board. 
If it has not been tightly strained, repeat the process, again wetting the 
cloth. 

Another way is to lay the embroidery face downwards upon a piece 
of flannel, dampen the back, or lay upon it a damp cloth, and press it 
with a hot iron. Embroidered work must on no account be boiled or 
allowed to lie in a wet condition after having been washed, nor must com- 
mon soaps or washing powders be used. 



i3 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.s 



Appropriate and Useful presents. 

For Gentlemen. — Neckties, suspenders, gloves, wristers, purses, 
stockings, smoking cap, tobacco-bag, eye-glass cleaner, twine-bag. 

For Ladies. — Spool-bag, work-bag, purses, mittens, hair-receiver, 
tea-cosey, lamp-shade, table mats, doylies. 

For Children. — Mittens, caps, hoods, sacques, shirts, petticoats, 
stomach-bands, socks. 
»* * * * * * * * * 

All the knitted and crocheted articles mentioned above are made 
entirely of silk, and the remaining ones call for embroidery silk in way 
of decoration. Rules and descriptions will be found on the following 
pages. 



Encouragement to Knitters. 

HE art of knitting is an accomplishment any lady may be proud 
of, and the present rage for silk underwear has increased the 
number of knitters. The beautiful silks we now have make 
the work very fascinating, and the price of these silks brings 
them within the reach of all. We feel satisfied that our rules for stock- 
ings, undervests, etc., can be used by beginners as well as by old knitters, 
and that underwear knit of silk is pleasant to wear and very durable. We 
propose to stimulate the knitting interest of to-day in two different ways ; 
1st. By making " the Best Knitting Silk in the World." 
2d. By issuing from time to time new rules and books on knitting. 



A SUGGESTION. 

Would it not be a pleasant occupation for many of our girls to fashion 
something, the best of its kind, in the style of the days they live in, so 
well and so prettily, that it would be worth keeping as a reminder of 
these days when they are past, and we ourselves are among the old- 
fashioned things ; and would also be worth sending down the time as 
our grandmothers' things have come to us ? 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. I3 



ABBREVIATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS OFTERMS TO BE FOUND 
IN RULES FOR KNITTING AND CROCHETING. 

P. — Means to purl or seam. 

N. — Narrow by knitting two stitches together. 

K. — Knit plain. 

S. — Slip or take off one stitch without knitting. 

S. and B. — Slip and bind, slip one stitch, knit the next, and pass the 
slipped stitch over the stitch knitted. 

T. T. O. — Throw thread over needle. 

Cast off. — Same as bind off — knit two stitches, pass first over second 
and repeat. 

C. S. — Chain stitch (crochet). Make a loop or slip knot and pass 
the hook through it, throw the thread over the hook, and draw it through 
the loop already made. 

S. S. — Slip stitch. Draw loop through one or more stitches on the 
crochet needle. 

S. C. — Single crochet. Put the hook through the foundation chain, 
or a stitch in the preceding row, throw thread over the hook, draw through 
the loop, thread over the needle again, and draw through the two loops 
on the hook. 

D. C. — Double crochet. Throw thread over the hook and insert the 
latter into a loop, thread over, and draw through the loop. You will have 
three loops on the hook, thread over the hook, draw through two loops, 
thread over and draw through two more. 

T. C. — Treble crochet. This is exactly the same as d. c, but is 
thrown twice over the needle instead oi once, and the stitch is completed 
by drawing the thread three times through two loops. 

Round. — To complete the circuit once around. 

Repeat. — Do the same thing over again, whether one or a series of 
stitches. 

Row. — Once across. 

* Marks a point in the work which is referred to again as in a re 
peat. 

Crocheting seems to have reached a degree of perfection, and still 
there are some who do not understand it ; these are the ones we hope to 
reach and profit by the rules and suggestions in this book. 

Chain stitch is the foundation of all crochet work and should be done 
rather loosely, as working on it tightens it, and is apt to give the work a 
puckered appearance. 



14 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

CHILD'S SILK Stocking-Ribbed Work. 

Stocking. — No. i8 needles. Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk 
No. 300. Cast on 80 stitches. Ribbing — knit 2, and purl 2 for 60 rounds 
(3 inches). 

Leg — 80 stitches, knit i , and purl i for 60 rounds (3 inches). Heel — 
40 stitches. Do not continue the ribbing. Knit in rows, plain and purU 
slipping first stitch of each row. Knit 40 rows. Turn the heel. 

Instep — Take up 32 stitches on each side of the heel. Place the 40 
instep-stitches on one needle, knit the two heel needles plain, and rib 
the instep for one round. Decrease thus: istheel needle — knit plain 
till 4 stitches are left, knit 2 together, knit 2, rib instep needle. 2d heel 
needle — knit i, slip i, knit i, and throw the slipped stitch over; knit 
the rest plain. Knit i round, without decreasing, after each decreasing 
round. Decrease till there are 80 stitches on the 3 needles. Foot 80 
stitches. Rib the upper needle, and knit the two under needles plain 
for 60 rounds, measuring from the turn of the heel. 

Toe — 80 stitches, begin with the upper needle, and knit the whole 
toe plain. Decrease thus: Knit 2, slip I, knit i, throw the slipped 
stitches over, knit plain till 4 stitches are left, then slip i, knit 1, throw 
the slipped stitch over, knit 2. First under needle, knit 2, slip 1, knit i, 
throw the slipped stitch ove ', knit the rest plain. Second under needle. 
Knit plain till 4 stitches are left, then slip i, knit i, throw the slipped 
stitch over, knit 2. Knit 4 plain rounds, after each decreasing round. 
After the 8th decreasing round, place the 24 under stitches on one needle, 
and cast off from both needles at once on the right side. Darn the end 
of the yarn into the knitting. 



LADY'S Ribbed Silk Stocking. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300. Materials, 4^ ounces 
of silk for one pair. 

Caat on 121 stitches, on No 16 or 17 needles. Rib — Knit 3, purl i — 
for about 14 inches in length, purling 2 in the centre of the back needle 
where the seam is. Narrowings — 121 stitches — 12 times, decreasing i on 
each side of the seam stitch as in plain knitting, with seven rounds of 
plain ribbing between the narrowings. Ankle — 97 stitches — rib about 
2yi inches. Heel — ^49 stitches — rib 36 rows, knitting 2 together in the 
middle of the last row. Pick up 20 stitches on each side of the heel. 
Foot — 96 stitches — knit about 8 inches long, including heel. Toe— 96 
stitches — narrow every third row 13 times. Cast off with 22 stitches on 
each needle. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. xy 

GENTLEMAN'S RIBBED SiLK SOCK. 

Materials, Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300, 3^ ounces, 
No. 16 or 17 needles. 

Cast on 100 stitches, 32 on two needles and 36 on the third, knit 2, 
purl 2 for 12 inches in length, or as long as you want the leg. Prepare 
for heel by ribbing to end of back needle, and from next needle rib 
on to baclc needle 8 stitches ; rib the remaining 24 stitches from first 
needle to another needle, rib second needle to within 8 stitches of the 
end; these 8 you must pass to the heel or back needle without knitting. 
You ought to have 52 stitches on heel and 24 on each side needle. The 
two front needles are not used again until the heel is completed. The 
heel is made by ribbing alternate rows for 42 rows. Each row is com- 
menced by knitting 2, do not knit the first stitch, slip it onto the needle. 
In 43d row, which commences round of heel, knit plain ; you no longer 
rib under the foot. Knit 34 stitches, knit two together, * turn your 
needle, seam 17 stitches, seam 2 together, again turn your needle, knit 
17 stitches, knit 2 together ; repeat from * until you have only 18 stitches 
on your needle ; this finishes heel. With this needle, on which you have 
the 18 stitches, take up, and as you take up, knit 24 stitches from side of 
your heel ; knit 4 stitches off front needle on the same, rib all the stitches 
from the two front needles excepting the 4 last on another needle. (Ob- 
serve the front needle is ribbed throughout until you commence narrow- 
ing for toe.) These 4 stitches must be knitted on a third needle, with 
which take up, and, as you take up, knit 24 stitches from side of heel; 
also knit 9 stitches from other side needle to this. You will have 37 on 
each side needle, and 40 on front needle. The next needle, which is 
your first side needle, knit plain, rib front needle, knit second side needle 
plain. First side needle — * knit plain until within 6 stitches of the end, 
then knit 2 together, knit 4. Front needle rib. 

Second side needle. — Knit 4, slip i, knit i, pull the slipped stitch 
over the knitted one ; knit plain to end of needle. Knit 2 rounds of the 
sock plain (always ribbing front needle). Repeat from * until the foot is 
sufficiently reduced, which will be when you have 98 stitches in all on 
your needles. 

Knit the foot about ()% inches long, including the heel ; but this 
depends on the length of foot you require. 

To reduce for toe, the front needle is now plain knitting not ribbed. 

Put as many stitches on your front needle as you have on the other 
2 together. You have now 40 on front needle, and 29 on each side ; so 
you must take 5 stitches from one side needle, and 4 from the other, and 
place them on front needle, which gives you 49 on front, 24 on one side 
needle, and 25 on the other. Commence the toe at front needle by knit 
I, slip I, knit I, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted i, knit plain to 
within 3 of end, when knit 2 together, knit i. 

First back needle. — Knit i, slip i, knit i, pull the slipped stitch over 
the knitted i ; knit plain to end of needle. Second back needle. — Knit 
plain to within 3 of the end, knit 2 together, knit i. This reducing is 
repeated every 3d round, the intervening rounds being knitted plain until 
you have about 44 stitches in all left on your needles ; knit the front and 
back stitches together, and as you knit them cast off. 



i6 The Brainerd &: Armstrong Co. s 

LADIES' KNITTED UNDER vest-High Neck and Long Sleeves. 

Materials, Brainerd & Armstrong's silk in hanks, 5 ounceSj 2 finest 
rubber needles. 

Back — Commence at bottom of back by casting on 80 stitches, and 
on these stitches do 30 rows of plain knitting. Then next row do * 3 
plain, seam 3 ; * repeat from * to *, or what comes between stars, over 
and over until you can count 100 rows of ribbing. Now seam 3 rows all 
across on wrong side. Then commence block knitting. * Do 5 plain 
stitches, seam 5 ; * repeat from * to * all across the row, and do 4 more 
rows the same. Then do * 5 seam, 5 plain ; * repeat from * to * all 
across, and do 4 more rows the same. This finishes 2 rows of blocks. 
Do 6 more rows of blocks, making 8 rows of blocks of 5 rows each. Do 
22 rows now of plain knitting. For one shoulder 5 plain, seam 5, 5 plain, 
seam 5, 5 plain, and take these stitches off on a cord for future use, bind 
off loosely 30 stitches, then commence other shoulder, 5 plain, 5 seam, 
5 plain, 5 seam, 5 plain. On this row do 4 more rows the same, which 
finishes i block. Do 3 more rows of blocks on this block. On last row 
of last block, when you get to end of row, cast on 30 stitches. Now on 
the stitches on the cord, do 4 rows of blocks (that is finish block begun, 
and do 3 more) to correspond with other shoulder. Now 8 rows of blocks 
all across shirt to match those on back; then do 100 rows of ribbing, 3 
plain, seam 3 alternately, then 30 rows plain knitting, bind off loosely. 
Sew up the sides to middle of blocks on body, leaving place for sleeves. 

Sleeve — Commence at arm size. Cast on 60 stitches, knit 10 plain 
rows, now narrow once on each end of needle every other row until you 
have only 45 stitches; on this row do 34 plain rows without narrowing. 
Now narrow every row on last end till you have 39 stitches, then * 
3 plain, seam 3 * for 24 rows. Bind off loosely ; sew up sleeves and 
sew into armholes. Finish neck with 2 rows of crocheted holes finished 
with shell edge. Then run in ribbon and tie in a bow on front. If 
wished, a crocheted finish may be added to bottom of shirt. 

This rule can be used for a vest without sleeves or with short sleeves, 
and the neck can be arranged either low or high. It is a beautiful pattern. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



INFANT'S Long Silk shirt. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's silk in hanks, 2 ounces. 

Two smallest size bone and 4 coarsest size steel knitting needles. 

On the bone needles cast on 84 stitches. 

1st row. I knit plain, always slipping ist stitch. 2d row. Purl. 3d 
row. Plain. 4th row. Slip i stitch, make i, * knit 4 plain, slip i, knit 2 
together in i stitch bind ("binding" is casting the slipped stitch over 
the last knitted one). Knit 4, make i, knit i make i *. Repeat from * 
to end of row. The last cluster of 4 will come out one short. 5th row. 
Purl. 6th row. Like 4th row. 7th row. Purl. 8th row. Like 4th row, 
9th row. Plain. 

These nine rows complete one cluster. Begin again at first row and 
make in all 5 clusters or 45 rows. 

46th row. Plain knitting. * 47th row. Knit 7 plain and 3 purl across 
the row. The last 4 stitches will be plain. 48th row. First 4 stitches 
purl, then complete the row with 3 plain and 7 purl, matching the stitches 
in the preceding row. 49th row. Like 47th row. 50th row. Plain knit- 
ting. 51st row. Knit 2 plain, then 3 purl and 7 plain alternately to end 
of row. 52d row. The stitches which in the 51st row were knitted plain, 
in the 52d row must be purled, and those that were purled in the 51st 
row, in the 5 2d row must be knitted plain. 53d row. Like 51st. 54th row. 
Plain knitting. 

Repeat the last 8 rows till the body of the shirt thus knitted in "bas- 
ket " pattern is as long as the scallops below. Then take off the stitches 
on a steel knitting needle. 

This completes one-half the body of the shirt. Knit the other half 
to match. 

For the sleeves cast on 48 stitches. Knit two clusters of scallops like 
those around the bottom of the shirt, and 7 clusters of the basket pattern. 

Cast off 1 5 stitches at each end of the 48 stitches, and take the other 
18 stitches on a steel needle. 

Sew the sleeve up, keeping it well stretched. 

The 15 cast-off stitches are to be sewed to each side of the body of 
the shirt, and the rest of the edges of the body of the shirt seamed to- 
gether to the bottom of the shirt. 

Join on the silk at the neck, and knit 5 rows, narrowing every 6th 
stitch till 120 stitches remain. 

Then knit i row of eyelets in this manner: i plain, make i, narrow, 
I plain, make i, narrow, etc. 

Finish with 2 plainly knitted rows and cast off the stitches loosely. 

A crocheted scallop finishes the neck of the shirt. 



i8 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



INFANT'S BOOT. 

Materials, 2 spools of Brainerd & Armstrong's silk No. 300. Two 
steel needles No. 17. 

Cast on 85 stitches with colored silk. 

1st row. Plain. 2d row. Purl. 3d row. Plain. 4th row. Use white 
silk; slip i, knit i, (a) throw thread ov^er, knit 3, slip i, knit 2 together, 
bind, slip stitch over, knit 3, throw thread over, knit 3 ; (a) repeat from 
(a) to (a) until there are but 2 stitches on the needle, then throw thread 
over and knit 2. 

5th row. Purl. 

Repeat 4th and 5th rows until you have 22 eyelets, then bind off 32 
stitches on the right-hand side of the boot, which will leave 10 on right 
of middle stitch ; then knit 2 together, throw thread over, knit 3, throw 
thread over, knit 3, slip i, knit 2 together, bind slip stitch over, knit 3, 
throw thread over, knit 3, throw thread over, knit 2 together, knit i ; this 
will leave 21 stitches, which are to be used in forming the instep; now 
bind off the stitches remaining on the left-hand needle, then purl the 21 
stitches, beginning on wrong side of sock. 

Next row — Slip ist stitch, knit 2 together, throw thread over, knit 3, 
throw thread over, knit 3, slip i, knit 2 together, bind over, knit 3, throw 
thread over, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit i. 

Repeat these 2 rows until there are 9 eyelets in instep, making 31 
eyelets from top of boot; then bind it off on right side. 

For foot, which may be knit basket or any other fancy stitch, use the 
colored silk ; to form the toe set on 13 stitches, and join to instep by knit- 
ting the last of the 13 stitches with the first of the instep stitches so as to 
form but i stitch ; widen every alternate row at the toe point, until there 
are 22 stitches on the needle, which must be in the middle of the instep; 
then narrow every alternate row until you have 13 stitches on the needle, 
now take up side stitches until there are 52 on the needle, including the 
13 toe stitches; then narrow down to 42 stitches by narrowing er/ety row 
at the toe end, and every alternate row at the heel end, and that in going 
off the needle. 

Take up 52 stitches on the right-hand side and knit as before. 

Sew straight parts together, fitting toe point in the angle thus formed. 

To knit roll take up the stitches, where the white and colored silks 
join, on 3 needles and use a fourth needle for knitting, purl 4 rows, then 
bind off. 



INFANT'S Band. 

Cast on 60 stitches. Use 4 needles, and knit around as in a stocking. 

Knit 3 plain, 2 purl, until about 8 inches deep, then cast off all but 
12 stitches. Knit back and forth on these, narrowing at the beginning, 
till but I stitch is left. This makes a tab to pin the band down. 




Economy is not in the purchase but in the use. Few articles of 
clothing are extravagant to purchase, but they are extravagant to wear. 
Especially is this true of laces, embroideries, and all delicate fabrics. 
The washing of such articles should never be attempted without Ivory 
Soap. Ivory gives a fine lather, free from oil or grease. It is mild but 
effective. Dirt rots the fibre of all textiles, but it is nothing compared 
to the speedy destruction which comes with the use of impure soap. 

Copyright 1890, by The Procter & Gamble Co. 




KlBl'S WM €B©€H1T C0TT0M IS THE llSTe 

mK FQE KllE'S, AWB 11 SHEl ¥00 €1T IT. 



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Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 19 

Wristers. 

(medium size.) 

Material. Knitting Silk. 

Cast 85 stitches. Knit in ribs of 3 stitches plain and 2 seamed. 90 
rows. Bind off loosely, and crochet scallop of 3 double and i single 
stitch, on one edge. 



INFANT'S CROCHETED SILK SOCKS. 

Materials, Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk i Y^ ounces, a small 
crochet needle. The pattern will hardly be called a handsome one, but 
it is easily made and understood. 

Make a chain long enough to go round baby's leg, 35 stitches, more 
or less. Join together to form a round, and work in d. c, putting the hook 
through the underhalf of each stitch for about 15 rounds ; this forms the 
leg. For the top part of the foot, raise 13 stitches, crochet tricotee — that 
is, put in the hook as before, pull the silk through and leave the loop on 
the hook. Work these 13 stitches forward and backward, in crochet tri- 
cotee for 10 rows, remembering that forward and backward make one 
row. On the next row narrow by drawing the silk through the first 3 
vertical stitches on the right-hand side of the piece, and again through 
the 3 stitches immediately before the last loop. Repeat these narrowings 
on the next row. There are now 5 stitches. Make a d. c. in each. The 
top part of the foot is finished. 

Next, work down the left side of this piece in d. c, then around the 
stitches at the bottom of the leg, and afterward along the right of the 
foot and around the toe. In doing this the only part to be careful about 
is the left side of the foot. The hook here should be put under the last 
of the tricotee stitches down the side and through the stitch below. Work 
round and round the bottom of foot and leg in d. c. for 6 or 7 rounds. 
Then turn the work inside out, place the two sides carefully together, put 
the hook through 7 stitches at the toe end and draw the silk through the 
whole. Crochet in d. c. the bottom edges of the foot together till only 7 
stitches are left, put the hook through all of these, draw them together to 
match the toe end, fasten off, turn it inside out again, and the foot is 
finished. 

Next fasten the silk on the top of the leg ; make 3 chains, work 2 
treble into the same hole, miss 2 stitches, and fasten with a d. c. into the 
3d stitch. Make 2 chain, work 2 trebles into the same hole as the d. c. ; 
miss 2 stitches and work a d. c. on the 3d. Repeat this scallop all around 
the top of the leg. 

The work is now complete with the exception of a little cord and 
tassels, or a narrow ribbon around the ankle. 



20 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



INFANT'S MITTENS. 

Materials, Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300, i oz., 2 
needles, No. 17 or 18, i yard ribbon half inch wide. 

Cast on 45 stitches. 

1st row. Knit plain to last 2 stitches. Then tto. once, and k. 2 end- 
stitches plain. 

2d row. K. 2 plain, k. loop as i stitch, k. rest plain. 

Repeat each row 1 1 times, making 24 rows in all. The open-work 
now contains 12 holes. There will be 57 stitches on needle. 

So far, the work has widened at the holes. In the next 6 rows it 
remains straight at the holes. 

1st row. Knit plain to last 4 stitches. K. 2 together, tto., k. 2 plain. 

2d row. K. 2, k. I loop, rest plain. Repeat twice or until 3 more 
holes hare been made. 

Narrow along the next 12 holes as follows : 

1st row. Knit plain, until 4 stitches from end. K. 2 together, tto., 
k. 2 plain. 

2d row. K. 2, k. i loop, k. 2 together, k. plain to end. 

Repeat 11 times, or until 12 holes in addition to preceding 15 have 
been made. The needle now contains 45 stitches. 

From these 45 stitches, repeat whole of preceding pattern. When 45 
stitches are again on the needle, bind off. 

Knit thumb separately as follows : 

Cast on 2 stitches. Knit i row, then widen by throwing thread over 
once in middle. Next row plain. 

Widen the thumb in succeeding rows by throwing thread over, after 
1st stitch of row, and before last stitch of row. Alternate rows plain, 
knitting loops as stitches. 

Continue thus, for gusset, until needle contains 5 stitches. Then 
cast on 6 additional stitches. 

Next row, i plain, tto., all plain to last stitch, tto., i plain. 

Next row, all plain. 

So continue until 6 holes have been made at tip end of thumb. 

Make 2 more holes, knitting 2 stitches together, immediately after 
hole in each row. Otherwise, knit rows as before. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



Make l more hole, knitting 2 together, before throwing thread, and 
2 together after hole. 

Next rows. Widen at hole by omitting to knit 2 together, in both 
rows. Narrow at other end, by knitting 2 together in both rows, next to 
hole. 

Now make two holes in straight edge corresponding with other straight 
edge at tip of thumb. Do this by throwing thread over, and narrowing 
only in alternate rows. Continue to narrow at lower end of thumb. 

Next narrow at both ends, until 6 holes have been made at upper end 
of thumb. Then knit straight edge of thumb plain, and bind off 6 stitches. 

Finish little triangle for gusset, corresponding to the other little tri- 
angle. Narrow at both ends of little rows, 2 holes at each slant of 
triangle. Reduce to 2 stitches, and bind off at point corresponding to ist 
hole. The whole thumb-piece will include 44 rows in all. 

Sew hand-piece up, accurately meeting the points for finger-ends. 
Sew together side-seam, for 17 stitches downward. Sew same seam from 
lower end, 8 stitches upward. The opening thus left is for thumb. Sew 
up thumb, accurately meeting rows, then insert it in mitten, meeting every 
row to a stitch. There will be 20 on each side, the extra stitches being 
taken up in joining slants of gusset. 

Knit the wrist separately, and sew on, accurately meeting row to row. 

The wrist for a baby's (or lady's) mitten may be any pretty knit lace 
pattern, about 2 inches in width. The one here given is the dainty, old- 
fashioned edging appropriately called " Baby Points." 

Cast on 12 stitches. 

1st row. K. 2, tto. twice, .purl 2 together; k. 2, tto. twice, k. 2 
together ; tto. twice, k. 2 together, tto. twice, k. 2 together. 

2d row. K. I, k. I loop, purl i loop ; repeat twice; k. 2 ; tto. twice, 
purl 2 together ; k. 2 plain. 

jd row. K. 2, tto. twice, purl 2 together ; k. 11 plain. 

4th row. Bind off 3. K. 7 plain, tto. twice, purl 2 together, k. 2 
plain. 

Repeat until 27 scallops or points have been made. Bind off, for i 
wrist. 

When the mitten is sewed up, finish by adding a bow of ribbon to 
the back of the wrist. This will serve to distinguish between the right 
and the left mitten, as well as adding to the effect. 



The Braixekd & Armstiiong Co.'s 




FANCY MITTEN. 

(See Rule on page 29.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 23 

LADY'S FANCY MiTTEN. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's No. 300 knitting silk, 1% ounces, 4 No. 18 
knitting needles. 

For a lady's mitten, corresponding to a No. 6 kid glove, cast on 96 
stitches. For a larger or smaller mitten, use any suitable number of 
stitches, divisible by 8. Knit 8 rounds plain. 

9th round. Slip off one stitch without knitting, knit i, draw slipped 
stitch over stitch knit, throw thread over once. Repeat from begin- 
ning. (In throwing thread, throw end/rt?/« you.) 

Knit 8 rounds plain. 

iSth round. Pick up on other needles the stitches first cast on, knit 
each stitch with each stitch of 17th round. This constitutes the hem of 
the mitten. 

Wrist pattern, ist round. Purl 2, throw thread over, 4 plain, knit 
2 together. Repeat. 

2d round. Purl 2, i plain, thread over, 3 plain, knit 2 together. 
Repeat. 

3d round. Purl 2, 2 plain, thread over, 2 plain, knit 2 together. 
Repeat. 

4th round. Purl 2, 3 plain, thread over, i plain, knit 2 together. 
Repeat. 

5th round. Purl 2, 4 plain, thread over, knit 2 together. Repeat. 

Repeat this pattern 7 or more times, according to the length of wrist 
desired. 

Next work a band of ribs by knitting i and purling i. So continue 
for 5 or 6 rounds, then make the holes, in which to run ribbon or elastic, 
as follows: 

1st round. Knit i, purl i, throw thread over twice, and knit 2 
together. Repeat. 

2d round. Knit i, purl i, knit 1 loop, purl i loop. Knit 2, purl i, knit 

1 loop, purl I loop. Repeat from " knit 2." Last stitch of round, knit i. 

3d round. Knit i, purl i, knit 2 together; purl i, knit i, purl i, knit 

2 together. Repeat from 2d " purl i." 

Continue to rib, knit i,purl i, for 5 or 6 rounds more. Finish off 
wrist by i round of purl. 

Now divide the 96 stitches into 3 groups, 48 on one needle, 24 on 
each of the 2 others. The 48 will constitute the back of the hand. For 
the left-hand mitten, mark the 5th and 6th stitches from the 48, on the 
right-hand group of 24; for the right-hand mitten, mark the 5th and 6th 
stitches from the 48, on the left-hand group of 24, the marked stitches 
constituting the base of the thumb. The stitch upon each side of the 
5th and 6th is to be purled for the seam of the thumb. Our pattern is for 
the left hand — a skillful knitter can easily adapt it for the right, or make 
it larger or smaller. 

1st round of hand. Knit i group of 24 plain. Knit the other group 
of 24 plain, except for the 2 purled stitches, forming seam for thumb. 
Knit 2 plain at beginning of group of 48. Following is the pattern 
introduced into the back of the hand, upon the next 28 stitches. Re- 
mainder of round plain. 



24 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

1st round of pattern. Draw 2d stitch over ist, knit it, knit ist; purl 
I, knit I. * Throw thread over once and knit i. Repeat from * 8 times. 
Purl I. Draw i stitch over, knit it, and knit the next. Repeat pattern 
once. 

2d round. Knit 2, purl i, knit 17 (each loop counting i stitch), purl 
I, knit 2. Repeat. 3d round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i, knit i, pass slipped 
stitch over i knitted, knit 13, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. Repeat. 4th 
round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i,knit I, pass slipped stitch over, knit 11, knit 
2 together, purl i, knit 2. Repeat. 5th round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i, 
knit I, pass slipped stitch over, knit 9, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. Re- 
peat. 6th round. Knit 2, purl i, slip i, knit i, pass slipped stitch over, 
knit 7, knit 2 together, purl i, knit 2. Repeat. 

Then repeat pattern from ist round. In every round of the hand, 
all stitches are to be knitted plain, exceptthe 28 on the back of the hand, 
and the 2 purled stitches, forming seams for the thumb. 

Widen for the thumb by making i extra stitch between the 2 marked 
plain stitches, in the 3d round. In every 4th round thereafter, make 2 
extra stitches next to the 2 stitches following the original 5th and 6th 
stitches marked, until the thumb is sufficiently wide. In an average 
mitten for a lady, this will be when from 29 to 31 stitches have been 
made between the 2 purled stitches. The pattern upon the back of the 
hand will then have been repeated about 7 times. 

Slip off the thumb stitches with a darning needle and a piece of 
thread. Tie the ends of the thread securely, and dispose the hand 
stitches evenly upon the three needles. Knit 50 rounds plain, in average 
mitten, from 52 to 58 in a larger. 

Narrow for hand as follows : 

K. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 together, etc., to end of round. If necessary, 
plain at end. 8 rounds plain. K. 2 together, k. 7, k. 2 together, etc., 7 
rounds plain. K. 2 together, k. 6, k. 2 together, etc., 6 rounds plain. K. 
2 together, k. 5, k. 2 together, etc., 5 rounds plain. K. 2 together, k. 4, 
k. 2 together, etc., 4 rounds plain. 

Narrow 3 times in every round thereafter, y^ of the round between 
each 2 narrowing, until each needle contains 4 stitches. Then narrow, 
until each needle contains 2 stitches. Break off the thread, pass it through 
a darning-needle, pass darning-needle through the 6 stitches, draw them 
to a point and fasten end of thread on inside. 

Now go back and pick up the thumb stitches, disposing them 
evenly on 3 needles. Knit 40 rounds plain, more or less, according to 
size of mitten. Narrow 3 times in every succeeding round, each narrow- 
ing marking ^ of the round, until each needle contains 2 stitches. 
Finish off as in hand. 



Rules and Designs for Silk KnittIxVg. 25 



LADY'S Jersey Mitten: 

Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk, 1% ounces, and a No. 2 star 
crochet hook. Single crochet stitch is used, with the hook put under 
the side of the stitch nearest the worker, and up through the centre of 
stitch instead of the usual way. 

Make a chain of 53 stitches and join in a ring, ist round, i single 
crochet in every chain. 2d round, i single crochet in every stitch ; re- 
peat the 2d round 40 times. 43d round. Make 1 1 chain, miss 1 1 , join in 
1 2th stitch (to start the thumb), 41 single crochet. 44th round, i single 
crochet in every stitch; repeat this round to end of 49th round. 50th 
round. (Narrow by missing i stitch) 52 single crochet in this round. 
53d round. Narrow 1,51 single crochet. 54th and 55th rounds, i single 
crochet in every stitch. 56th round. Narrow i, 50 single crochet. 57th 
round. I single crochet, in every stitch ; repeat this round to end of 70th 
round. 71st round. Narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow i, 13 single 
crochets, narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow 1,13 single crochets. 72d 
round. Narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow I, il single crochets, narrow 
I, 10 single crochets, narrow I, 1 1 single crochets. 73d round. Narrow 
1, 9 single crochets, narrow i, 10 single crochets, narrow i, 9 single cro- 
chets, narrow i, 10 single crochets. 74th round. Narrow i, 8 single cro- 
chets, narrow i, 9 single crochets, narrow i, 8 single crochets, narrow i, 
9 single crochets. 75th round. Narrow each alternate stitch to end of 
round; repeat this last round to end of mitten, and fasten thread. For 
the thumb : ist round. 22 single crochets ; repeat till there are 18 rounds, 
then narrow every alternate stitch in three successive rounds, and fasten 
thread. Finish at wrists with several rows of shells, or any fancy edge 
desired. These mittens are very elastic, and fit the hand and wrist 
nicely. 

Wristers. 

No. I. — Brainerd & Armstrong's No. 300 silk, i ounce, and 4 No. 18 
knitting-needles. Cast on 90 stitches for a medium size. Knit in plain 
ribs, of knit 2, purl 2, alternately. Finish off at the top and bottom with 
a row of crocheted edging worked in the wrister. 

No. 2. — Cast 40 stitches on 2 needles and 30 on i. Knit once around 
plain. Knit l, over, knit 3, slip 1, narrow, bind over the one you slip, 
knit 3, over, knit i, over, knit 3, slip, narrow, and bind as before, and so 
continue; make i stitch at the end of each needle. If you want a larger 
size, cast on 10 more stitches for each scallop that you add. 



■26 The Brainekd & Armstrong Co.'s 

Knitted Gloves For Gentlemen. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300, i^ ounces, 4 knitting 
needles No. 17. 

Cast on 72 stitches, 24 on each needle ; join together, knit once 
around plain ; knit 40 rounds ribbed, 2 plain and 2 purl. After this 6 
rounds are knitted plain. Here begin the widening for the thumb. 

At the beginning of the ist needle throw silk over, knit 3, throw silk 
over again, and complete the remainder of the round plain. Next 2 
rounds are plain. 

At the beginning of the next one throw silk over, knit 5, silk over, 
complete plain. Two rounds plain. 

Continue widening in this way every 3d round, until there are 33 
stitches between the widenings. After this knit 6 rounds plain. 

Slip the 35 thumb stitches on to a thread or another needle ; turn 
work, and cast on 9 stitches in place of those slipped off; turn, and com- 
plete the round plain. Next round plain. 

In the 3d round from the thumb narrow twice, the first two of the 9 
stitches cast on, and the last 2. Narrow in the same place every alternate 
round, until there are but 72 stitches remaining. Knit 20 rounds plain. 

Now you begin the fingers. For the first i, take 10 stitches from the 
1st needle, and 10 from the last. Slip all the remaining stitches on to a 
thread. 

After knitting the 20 stitches, cast on 9 to a 3d needle ; join, and knit 
round and round until the work is the desired length, usually as long as 
the finger. The narrowing is done quickly ; knit 2, narrow, repeat the 
entire round. 2 rounds plain. 

For the 3d round knit i, narrow, entire round, i round plain. 

After this continue narrowing all the stitches until there are no more. 
Leave a little length of silk, and thread into a sewing needle, and fasten 
neatly and securely. 

For the 2d finger, take 9 stitches from the front of the glove and 9 
from the back, pick up the 9 stitches where the 9 were cast on before, to 
make the gore. Knit the 27 stitches, cast on 9 more and join together. 
Arrange the stitches on three needles, and knit i round plain. In 
every alternate round narrow the first 2 stitches, and the last 2 of the gores, 
until there are left but 29 stitches. Continue and finish this finger like 
the first. 

The 3d finger is worked exactly like the 2d. 

For the 4th, or little finger, the remaining stitches, 16 in number, are 
used ; it is knitted like the last 2, except casting on the 9 stitches. Pick- 
ing up the 9 from the gore gives 25 stitches for the finger. 

For thumb, take the 35 stitches from the thread, and pick up 9 from 
the gore, and work exactly like the fingers, narrowing until there are but 
35 stitches. These gloves are not rights and lefts, but fit either hand. 



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Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 27 



Knee-Warmers. 

Brainerd & Armstrong's knitting silk No. 300, 2 ounces, 4 No. 17 
knitting needles. Cast on 99 stitches, 25 on one needle, and 37 on each 
of two remaining ones, using the 4th one for knitdng. Knit alternately 
2 plain and 2 purl, all the way round to form the ribbing. After knitting 
70 rows of ribbing the knee gore is formed as follows : after the 70th row, 
knit I plain row and turn the work, knit all off on i needle, narrowing in 
this way : slip the ist stitch, knit the 2d and 3d stitches together, then 
knit plain until the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together and slip the last stitch, 
knit back plain on one needle. This gore is all worked with two needles, 
narrowing two stitches in every second row, as described, until there are 
only 10 stitches left on the needle, then take up stitches all around the 
gore on 3 needles, 99 in all, knit i plain row all around, and finish with 
37 rows of ribbing as above and cast off. These are very easily made, 
are comfortable and useful. 



Fancy Pattern. 

Suitable for Mitten Wrist. 

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8. Knit 8 rounds plain, 

9th round. Slip i, knit i, draw slipped stitch over plain, make I 
extra stitch. Repeat. 

Knit 7 rounds plain. Then pick up with other needles the stitches 
first cast on and knit each stitch off plainly, with each stitch of the next, 
or 17th round, thus forming a doubled edge, or hem, finished with a row 
of points. Then work the fancy design thus : 

1st round. Purl 3, tto., knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat. 

2d round. Purl 3, tto., knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat. 

3d round. Purl 3, tto., knit 2, knit 2 together, knit i. Repeat. 

4th round. Purl 3, tto., knit 3, knit 2 together. Repeat. 

5th round. Purl 3, knit 3, knit 2 together, tto. Repeat. 

6th round. Purl 3, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit i, tto. Repeat. 

7th round. Purl 3, knit i, knit 2 together, knit 2, tto. Repeat. 

8th round. Purl 3, knit 2 together, knit 3, tto. Repeat. 

Repeat this pattern until as deep as desired. 



28 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Like Alexander of old, sighing for new worlds to conquer, is the 
fancy worker of to-day. Something new is wanted all the time, and 
with this end in view it is our pleasure to introduce to our readers these 

New and Charming Stitches, 

t. e., the Knot Stitch, and the Rose and the Roll Stitches. 




KNOT STITCH. 

Make a chain stitch, 
* draw out the loop on the 
needle a quarter of an 
inch, or as long as pre- 
ferred, throw thread over 
the needle and draw 
through ; make a single 
crochet around the thread 
that was drawn through 
between it and the loop 
that was drawn out first. 
The arrow in the sample 
will plainly show where 
the single crochet is to be 
worked in ; then make i 
ch. to fasten the knot. 



Rui.es and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



29 



Repeat from * for the chain of 
knots, to make two or more rows 
of knot stitches as seen at Detail 
Nos. I and 2. 



Turn at the 
end of the row 
and work a sin- 
gle crochet in 
the fifth knot 
from the needle; 
then I chain *, 
2 knots, fasten 
on the second 
knot with a sin- 
gle crochet, i 
chain ; repeat 
from * across 
the row. 




30 



The Brainerd <k AKMi>TRo.\G Co.s 



Roll Stitch. 




Thread over the needle twenty times, insert needle in work, thread 
over, draw through the work ; thread over, pull through the coil, thread 
over, draw through one loop on needle. The roll when complete is 
straight, with a string the length of the roll on its left side. Repeat de- 
tails given for the next stitches. The length of the rolls may be regu- 
lated by the number of times the silk is thrown over the needle. The 
less times it is thrown over the easier it is to make. The capital letter 
O, found after the stitches, with a figure at the right side, denotes how 
often the thread is thrown over. Example : 5 roll sts. O 20, means 5 roll 
sts. over twenty times. 



Daisy. 



Chain 10 stitches, join ; cliain 
5; then work 23 roll sts. O 20 in 
the ring; join to the first roll with 
a slip stitch. 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



Rose Stitch, 




Fasten silk to the foundation and * chain three, then throw thre.id 
over twenty times, or as often as preferred, put needle through work, 
thread over, draw through the work, thread over and draw through the 
coil, thread over and draw through the loop on needle, draw the silk so tight 
that it will bend the coil nearly half to the work ; repeat from *. 



Roll Picot stitch. 




This stitch is similar to the Rose stitch, but before the three chains 
are made it is drawn so tight that both ends of the coil meet and it is 
fastened to the work with a single crochet. 

These stitches are used in a variety of ways, many of which will 
suggest themselves to the experienced worker, but we give a number of 
designs which are useful and beautiful. 



32 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




SCARF WHEEL. 

(DciCription, page 33.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 33 



SCARF Wheel. 

This charming wheel is a combination ;pf ordinary crochet stitches 
and the new Roll stitch and is made of Brainerd & Armstrong's Victoria 
Knitting Silk, and a No. 4 hook. It is best to obtain a crochet hook 
which is slightly bent at the end, one in which the point is perfectly straight 
does not work as well. 

Chain 8 stitches, join in a ring. Ch. 3, 3 d. c. in ring, * 5 ch., 4 d. c. 
in ring, repeat twice from *, 5 ch., join to 3 ch. 

2d round. I ch., 3 s. c. over 3 d. c, *i s. c, 8 d. c, i s. c. under 
5 ch. ; 4s. c. over 4 d. c, repeat from * twice, i s. c, 8 d. c, i s. c. under 
5 ch., join to I ch. 

3d round. 3 ch., 2 d. c. in 2 s. c, 5 ch., d. c. in the same place 
where last d. c. was worked in, 2 d. c, in 2 s. c, * 5 ch., on centre of 
scallop work 2 d. c. with 5 ch. between, 5 ch., 3 d. c, in 3 s. c, 5 ch., 
3 d. c, in 3 s. c, repeat from * twice, then 5 ch., on centre of scallop 
2 d. c. with 5 ch, between ; 5 ch., join to 3 ch. 

4tli round. 8 ch., under 5 ch. work a shell of 3 d. c, 5 ch., 3 d., 

* 5 ch. In the middle 5 chain work 6 roll sts. O 20, 5 ch., a shell, repeat 
from * twice, 5 ch., 6 rolls in middle 5 chain, join to third of 8 ch. 

5th round, i ch., s. c. under chains until full and i s. c. in each 
d. c, and 2 s. c. in each roll st., join. 

6th round. * 3 ch., 5 trebles in space made by 5 ch. (working it 
over the s. c.) with 3 cli. between, 3 ch., fasten to the edge of roll scallop. 
Over roll scallop work 6 spaces of 5 ch., si. st. in each roll, repeat from 

* three times. 

7th round. 6 ch., si. st. in each of 5 chain, join. 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




GUIPURE WHEEL. 
(Description, page 35,) 



l^ULES AND Designs for Silk Knitting. , 35 



Guipure Wheel. 

This dainty wheel, a combination of Knot and Roll sfitches, is 
suitable for the decoration of none but the daintiest fabrics; a scarf of 
silk mull or veiling with a trimming of these wheels would be fit for Titania 
herself. 

Use Brainerd and Armstrong's Victoria Knitting Silk and hook 
No. 4, as described in a previous article. 

Chain 8 and join, work 5 ch., 24 roll sts. O 20 in the ring, join to 5 ch. 

2d round. Make i knot st. the same length as the roll st., 3 rolls 
between every 4 roll sts., between each group of 3 roll make 2 knot sts., 
and join to the first roll. 

3d round, i knot st. and over group of 3 rolls make 2 roll sts., 
2 knot sts. fastened on knot of previous row, 2 knot sts., repeat all 
around and join. 

4th round, i knot st., i roll st. over each of two rolls, and between 
two knot sts., fasten to knot of previous round 2 knots fastened down, 
2 knots. 

5th round, i knot St., * 5 roll sts. on each of i roll with 2 knot sts. 
between each roll, fasten the scallops to first knot, 2 knot sts. fasten on 
knot, 2 knot sts. fasten on knot, repeat all around from *. 



36 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




PASSEMENTERIE WHEEL. 
(Description, page 37,) 



Rules and Designs for Silk. Knittinc;. 37 



Passementerie Wheel. 

Here we have an extremely handsome wheel, or square, as it will be 
more correctly named. It is also a combination of stitches, showing the 
Roll stitch and the Roll Picot stitch. 

Made up in Brainerd & Armstrong's Victoria Knitting Silks in the 
dainty shades they manufacture, it makes a dainty finish to a scarf, 
while developed in black silk it equals the handsomest Passementerie in 
the market. 

Chain 10 and join. 

1st round. Ch. 8, 6 roll bts. O 20 in ring, 10 ch., 6 roll sts., 10 ch., 
6 roll sts., 10 ch., 6 roll sts., 10 ch., in ring join to the top of 8 ch. 

2d round. 6 ch., d. c. between second roll, 2 ch., d. c. between sec- 
ond roll, 2 ch., 12 roll sts. O 12, under the 10 chain sts. repeat all around 
and join to the third of the 6 chain.. 

3d round. 6 ch., d. c. in d. c. (2 ch., d. c. in d.c), repeat over each 
d. c. Over the 12 roll sts. work 2 ch., and a d. c. in each roll, or each 
second roll so that it is full enough around the corners, join to the third 
of 6 ch. 

4th round. Work Roll Picots O 20 all around, rather fuller at the 
corners than on the sides. 



38 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




SCARF WHEEL. 
(Description, page 39.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 39 



Scarf Wheel. 

This wheel, in plain crochet stitches, is a very desirable addition to 
the wheel already given; it is simple in construction, and has a very 
good effect when made. Use Brainerd & Armstrong's Knitting Silks and 
No. 4 hook. 

Join 12 chain stitches in a ring. 

1st round, i ch., 24 s. c. in ring, join to i ch. 

2d round. Turn. This is worked ribbed style and must be turned at 
the end of each round. * Ch. 12, s. c. over the 12 and 3 s. c. on ring, 
repeat from * 7 times, join to first s. c. and slip stitch over 2 chain on 
the first 1 2 ch. 

3d round. Turn, * ch. 3, miss 3 s. c. on the ring and 2 on the 
next 12 ch., work s. c. around the point of 12 ch. on all but 2 last sts., 
on the point work 3 s. c, repeat from * 7 times. In the last point the 2 
last stitches have been used in the beginning of the round, so you work 
to them and fasten on the 3 ch. 

4th round. Turn, slip stitch up 2 stitches, * s. c. around point on 
all but two last stitches, 3 s. c. in centre of point, 4 ch., miss 2 on next 
point and repeat from * 7 times, joining the 4 ch. to the first s. c, mak- 
ing 2 si. sts. over 2 s. c. 

5th round. Turn, * ch. 4, miss 2 sts. on the point, s. c. all around 
but in last 2, 3 s. c. in the centre of point, repeat from * 7 times. On 
the last point the two last stitches were used in the beginning of the 
round, work to them and fasten on the 4 chain. 

6th round. Like the 4th round. 

7th round. Like the 5th round, but using 5 chain in place of 4. 



40 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




CHATELAIN CHAIN. (Deicripiion, page 41.; 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 41 



CHATELAIN CHAIN. 

For those of our readers who like a chatelain for their watches, we 
have prepared this graceful design, which is developed in Brainerd & 
Armstrong's Victoria Knitting silk, in any color desired. 

A handsome ornamentation for a lady's dress or wrap is made of 
the same design used as Passementerie. 

Begin at the daisy as follows : Chain 10, join, ch. 8, 20 roll sts. O 20 
in the ring, join to first roll. 

2d round. Ch. 5, and a slip st. between every roll with 5 chain be- 
tween, join to the first of 5 chain. Turn the wrong side towards you and 
chain 15 sts., miss 3 loops of 5 ch., si. st. in the next, 6 ch., si. st. in next 
loop, 6 ch., si. St. in the next, 15 chain sts., miss 3 loops, si. st. in the 
next, 3 ch., si. st. in the next. Now turn right side towards you and 
work 15 roll sts. O 10 under 15 ch., si. st. in centre of 6 ch., 6 ch., si. st. 
in centre of 6 ch., 15 roll sts. under 15 ch., si. st. in next loop of 5 ch. 
Turn wrong side towards you and si. st. over 9 roll sts., then 5 chain, 

I long treble O 3 in the loop of 6 chain, 5 ch., i longtr., 5 ch., i long 
tr. in the same place, 5 ch., fasten to the fifth roll, si. st. over i roll and 
turn right side towards you. Work under each of 5 chain 6 roll sts. 
O 10, fasten over i roll. This finishes first scallop beneath the half moons 
on each side of the daisy. 

Second scallop below. Wrong side towards you, slip stitch over 

8 rolls, 15 ch., miss 8 rolls, si. st. in 2 next rolls and turn right side 
towards you and work 16 roll sts. O 10 under 15 chain, fasten over first 
roll. 

Third scallop below. Wrong side towards you, slip stitch over 
5 roll sts., 13 chain sts., miss 6 rolls, si. st. over 2 rolls and turn right 
side towards you and work 14 roll sts. O 10 under 13 chain, fasten over 
first roll. 

Fourth scallop below. Wrong side towards you, slip st. over 5 rolls, 

I I ch., miss 4 rolls, si. st. over 2 rolls, turn right side towards you and 
under 11 ch, work 12 roll sts. O 10, fasten over first roll. 

Fifth scallop below. Wrong side towards you, si. st, over 5 rolls, 

9 ch,, miss 4 rolls, si, st, over 2 rolls, turn and 10 rolls O 10 under 9 ch., 
fasten over first roll. 

Finish the edge with two rows of loops of 5 chain each, slip st. be- 
tween each roll. Last row 5 ch,, si, st. under previous loops. 



42 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




DAISY LACE. (Description, page 43.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 43 



Daisy Lace. 

A very useful pattern showing a combination of the Roll stitches 
and Knot stitch, with plain crochet for the heading. It forms a hand- 
some decoration for a silk scarf and as a trimming for the bottom of a 
lady's sash it has no rival. Use Brainerd & Armstrong's Knitting Silk 
for this pattern. 

Make a chain of 39 stitches. 

1st row. D. c. in the fifth ch., 3 ch., 3 d. c. in the same place 
with 3 ch, between. This is for a shell. Now 2 knot stitches half an inch 
long, fasten on the seventeenth ch., 2 knot sts., a shell of 4d. c. with 
3 ch. between in the last stitch of the chain. 

2d row. Ch. 5, shell in shell, * knot stitch fasten to knot of 
previous row with a s. c. and i ch., * repeat twice, knot St., shell in shell, 
a treble in the space on the outside to make an even edge. 

3d row. Same as the second, but in place of a treble at the end 
make * 10 ch., a si. st. in the fifth ch. 5 ch., a slip st. in the first of the 
10 ch. Now in the little hole at the end work 16 roll sts. O 10, join to 
first roll. This makes a daisy and all the rest in the design are the same.* 

4th row. 3 ch., a shell, 2 knot sts., fasten on 2 knots. Now a daisy 
as repeated from * to *, 2 knot sts., fasten first on knot, shell in shell, 
treble on edge. 

5th row. 5 ch., shell in shell, 2 knot sts. fastened on top of daisy, 
2 knot, shell in shell. 

6th row. 5 ch., shell in shell, * knot stitch fasten on knot of previ- 
ous row with a s. c. and i ch., * repeat twice, knot St., shell in shell, 
treble on edge. 

7th row. Same as sixth, but in place of treble at end begin a daisy, 
work 4 rolls in it, then fasten to the side of the first daisy, work 4 more 
rolls in and start another daisy ; in that work four rolls and fasten on the 



44 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



top of the first daisy, then put in 12 more rolls and join, and finish the 
other with 8 rolls, join and work the eighth row. 

8th row. Same as fourth. 

9th row. Same as fifth. 

loth row. Same as sixth. 

nth row. Same as sixth, but in place of the treble at the end, 
begin a daisy, work in 4 rolls and fasten to the side of second daisy, 
work in 4 more rolls and begin another daisy, work four rolls in that and 
fasten to the top of the second daisy, 4 rolls more in that daisy and begin 
the last one, work in 4 rolls and fasten on the top of the third daisy, 12 
rolls in the daisy and join, 8 rolls in the next and join, 8 rolls in the next 
and join. 

1 2th row. Same as fourth row. 

13th row. Same as fifth row. 

14th row. Same as sixth row. 

Repeat from the third for the next scallop. 



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MANUFACTURERS OF THE 



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FOR SALE BY ALU THE LEADING MERCHANTS EVERYWHERE. 



Do not spoil a handsome crocheted 
or fancy article by putting on cheap 
ribbon, but use the " Fair and Square " 
brand. Special shades made to give 
best effects in combined colors. When- 
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the bolt of ribb you can be sure 
you are getting the best ribbon made. 
This is 2l facsimile of the label. 




For sale everywhere by dealers in 
fine goods. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



45 



Black Crocheted beaded Bag. 

(MRS. Snyder's pattern.) 




Materials : 3 spools Brainerd & Armstrong's Double F black silk, 
or use 4 balls of Brainerd & Armstrong's New Crochet Silk, one large 
bunch of cut beads, and a No. 2 star crochet hook. 

String the beads on the silk before you begin to crochet, and always 
push the bead on the silk before you take the stitch. Form a foundation 
chain of 150 stitches, join in a ring, use the short crochet stitch and cro- 
chet 2 plain rows, when you work the second row take up both stitches 
in the top of the first row. Make the third and fourth rows plain rows of 
beads. Start the squares by crocheting * 5 plain stitches and 5 stitches 



46 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



with beads, continue this for 5 rows when you will have a complete row 
of squares, start the next row with 5 stitches with beads, then 5 plain 
stitches and continue for 5 rows. You will find you have a plain square 
over a beaded one ; repeat from * until you have 18 rows of squares which 
you may finish with 2 plain rows of beads and 20 rows of plain crochet for 
the top. This will make a bag gyi x 7 inches, a very useful size. In all 
bead work, the beads will be on the wrong side of the work, and the 
article being made must be turned after it is finished. A handsome finish 
for across the bottom of the bag can be made with a row of crocheted 
rings, any size desired, and a tassel formed of the beads fastened in the 
centre of each ring. The top should be finished with a strip of silk 
seven inches deep, turned down two inches at the top to make a frill and 
casing. Two pieces of ribbon i inch wide and 27 inches long are run 
through the casing to draw the bag together. 



LONG CROCHET PURSE. 




Brainerd & Armstrong purse silk 2 spools, 2 bunches steel beads 
No. 8. 

Make a ch. of 84 stitches, work once across in single crochet, then 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 47 

join it together. Work 3 rows more in s. c, then work in 6 steel beads, 
then 6 plain stitches, repeat the 6 beads and 6 stitches, through the row ; 
work 5 more rows like the last ; this gives you a steel block and a plain 
silk block. Alternate by working 6 beads over the plain silk block, and 
a plain silk block over the steel block. Do this until you have 6 rows of 
blocks. Work 4 rows plain. Now commence the opening in the centre, 
by making 2 ch. and i d. c. in every third stitch through the row. At 
end of row turn, and work back, making 2 ch. and i d. c. in top of i d. c. 
in last row. Repeat this last row until you have 21 rows, then join, and 
work 4 plain rows (be sure and have 84 stitches), in s. c, then put I 
bead in every stitch for one row. Next row, 5 beads, i plain stitch, 5 beads, 
I plain stitch. Next row, 4 beads, 2 plain stitches. Next row. 3 beads, 3 
plain stitches. Next row. 2 beads, 4 plain stitches. Next row. i bead, 5 
plain stitches. Then 4 rows plain. Next row. i bead, 5 plain stitches. Next 
row. 2 beads, 4 plain stitches. Next row. 3 beads, 3 plain stitches. Next 
row. 4 beads, 2 plain stitches. Next row. 5 beads, and i plain stitch. 
Then 7 rows with a bead in each stitch. The remaining rows, a bead in 
every stitch, narrowing off 6 stitches in each row, bringing the end to a 
point. Sew a tassel on this end, and fringe on the other end. After cro- 
cheting the opening (d. c), slip on both rings. In crocheting any bead 
work, the side held towards you is the wrong side. Make 3 ch. at com- 
mencement of each row at the opening, in centre of purse. 



Baltimore crocheted Tie. 

By far the prettiest tie we have yet seen, we take great pleasure in 
recommending it. 

Use three spools of Brainerd & Armstrong's Crochet Silk with a No. 
13 Milward crochet needle. 

Begin on the bottom of the long end, which is 16;^ inches long, then 
work the narrow neckband 15 inches, or to suit the size of collar worn, 
and last the short end 6 inches long. 

Manner of working. Chain 38 stitches, work a shell of 5 double 
crochet in the fourth ch. from needle, then catch 'down in the next 



48 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




BALTIMORE TIE. 



fourth St. with a single crochet, 
* ch. 3, and make a shell in 
the same stitch where the s. c. 
was worked in, repeat from * 
until 8 shells are in a row. 

2d row. Ch. 3 and turn, 
make * a single crochet between 
shell and 3 ch., then 3 ch. and 
a shell under the 3 ch. of first 
row, repeat from * across the 
row. Continue in this manner 
until you have i6>^ inches of 
8 shells in a row. 

Narrowing. Make first shell 
and make 2 s. c. on 2 shells, 
leaving out a shell ; on the op- 
posite side do the same, so that 
it narrows to 6 shells, make 6 
rows of 6 shells, then narrow to 
4 shells and be sure you always 
make your first and last shells 
so that you do not spoil the 
edges. Crochet 3 rows of 4 
shells, narrow i shell more, 
and work the neck piece with 3 
shells as long as needed. 

Widen. Crochet first shell, 
make the s. c. between shells, 
and then work a shell in there, 
work on as before and increase 
on opposite side in same man- 
ner. Crochet 5 rows of 5 shells, 
increase to 7 shells and work 6 
inches long. Finish off the end 
where you began with a row of 
shells. 

Work tight and it will give 
a fluted effect. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



49 



Crocheted umbrella Case. 

A very desirable article and one that is much liked. This design 
has an openwork pattern which commends itself at once : first, for the 
free circulation of air, facilitating the drying of the umbrella ; second, 
for the small quantity of silk necessary to make it. 

Use Brainerd & Armstrong's Knitting Silks in 
black, navy or cardinal, with a No. 4 crochet hook. 

This cover is made with a ball and a half of 
Brainerd & Armstrong's Crochet Silk. A smaller 
cover suitable for a lady's umbrella can be made 
with one ball of silk. 

It has several advantages : first, it does not 
chafe or wear the. finest silk umbrella ; second, it 
permits the air to get to the umbrella and dry it 
when damp ; third, when off it folds so small it will 
go into a vest pocket. 

Cover a ring one-half inch in diameter with 
36 s. c, join to the first s. c. 

1st round. Over the 36 s. c. work 12 loops of 
5 chain each with a s. c. on the ring between every 
5 chain. The rounds are not joined at each end, 
but worked right over it round and round. 

2d row. Now 5 ch. sts. and a single crochet 
over each loop of 5 ch. sts. of first round, and con- 
tinue in that manner for 56 rounds. Then in the 
next 65 rounds use 6 ch. sts. in place of five. 
Turn and work backwards and forwards for 7 rows, 
thus leaving an opening in one side. Now over 
the 12 loops of 6 chains each work 3 deep van- 
dykes. Make a vandyke as follows : work over 
4 loops in the same manner as the body of cover 
for 7 rows backwards and forwards, then work to a 
point and cut silk. Make the next 2 Vandykes 
like it, and then work 2 Vandykes under the ones 
already made, so that they fall between them. Be- 
gin at the opening and work over the edge of all 
the scallops a heavy edge of half-double crochets. 
Draw a ribbon or silk braid through the neck to 
draw around the umbrellas. 



50 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

Tobacco Bag. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk, 2 spools red, i spool gold, a No. 
2 star crochet hook. 

1st round. 24 t. c. under the chain, join to first t. c. with one s. c. 
To commence the next round work 3 chain to take place of the first t. c; 
this applies to each round, so that we shall not repeat the directions. 
Commence at the centre of bottom of bag with red silk and work 8 
chains, join round. 

2d round, i t. c. into i stitch, 2 t. c. into the next ; repeat all round, 

3d to 6th round. With gold silk work i t. c. into each of 2 stitches, 2 
into the next ; repeat all round. 

7th round. With red silk work i t. c. into each of 2 stitches, 2 in the 
next, then with gold silk work i t. c. into each of 6 stitches ; repeat from 
the beginning of the round. In order to make the number of stitches 
right so that the Vandyke patterns come evenly, you must either pass 
over a stitch, or work twice into a stitch at the end of the round if neces- 
sary. 

8th round. With red silk work i t. c. into each of 4 red stitches, 2 
red into the first gold, i gold into each of the 4 next gold, 2 red into the 
next gold; then repeat from the beginning of the round. 

9th round, i red into each stitch of red, i red into next gold, i gold 
into each of 2 next gold, i red into the next gold. Repeat from the begin- 
ning of the round. 

loth and nth rounds. Work entirely with red silk, i t. c. into each 
stitch. The i ith round should have 154 stitches. 

1 2th round. The Greek Key pattern is commenced in this round. 
With red work 2 t. c. into a stitch, i into each of 2 next stitches, 2 in the 
next; with gold, i t. c. into each of 10 stitches. Repeat from the begin- 
ning of the round. 

*" 13th round, i t. c. with red into each red stitch of last round, I gold 
into each of 2 next gold, i red into each of 6 next gold, i gold into each 
of 2 next gold. Repeat from beginning of round. 

14th round, i red into each of 5 red, 2 into the next, i gold into 
each of 2 gold, i red into 4 next stitches, i gold into each of 7 next 
stitches. Repeat from beginning of round. 

15th round. With red, i t. c. into each of 7 stitches, i gold into each 
of 2 stitches. 1 red into each of 4 next stitches, i gold into each of 2 
next stitches, i red into each of 5 next stitches ; repeat from beginning 
of round. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 51 

1 6th round, i gold into each of 7 red stitches, i into each of 2 gold, 
I red into each of the next red stitches, i gold into 7 next stitches, repeat 
from beginning of round. Now work about 2 inches of red in i t. c, 
into each stitch without increase or decrease. 

Then work another Greek Key pattern, as described in 12th to i6th 
rounds, omitting the increase. Work 2 rows plain. For a top finish, 
1st round, i t. c. into a stitch, 2 ch., pass by 2 stitches, and repeat. 2d 
round, i d. c. into each stitch of the last round. 3d round, i t. c. into 
each of 2 stitches, 2 ch., pass by 2 stitches, and repeat. 4th round. Like 
2d round. The 3d and 4th rounds are repeated twice more. Now with 
red silk finish the diamond at the bottom of the bag by working 
lines of chain stitches from the depth between the points to the centre of 
the 1st row, either with a needle or crochet hook. Line bag with India 
rubber or chamois, and run red silk cord and tassels through the holes. 



Work Bag. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk %. ounce, a No. 2 star crochet 
hook, 2 yards narrow satin ribbon, piece of satin 5x9 inches. This little 
bag will be found very convenient for holding knitting or crochet work. 
Make a ch. of 40 stitches. 20 rows around it in s. c. stitch widening on 
each side, taking up only the back loop of the stitch. 

The following 22 rows are formed of shells made in this way : 2 d. c. 
in 1st stitch, i ch., 2 d. c. in the same stitch, the 2d shell in 5th stitch from 
last. The next row of shells are joined in the former row. The last 
rows are caught down between each with a s. c. sti*^ch. Make the handles 
of cord formed of the silk. Draw the ribbon through the open soaces, 
make a bag of the satin and fasten in the top of the shells, turning the 
satin over at the top to form a frill and casing, and draw the ribbon 
through the casing. 



52 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Hair Receiver. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk i ounce, a No. 2 star crochet 
hook. This is something new and very pretty, is in the shape of a bag 
drawn to a point at the bottom, and finished at the top with lace. 

For the bag. Make a ch. of 138 stitches, join it. 

1st and 2d rows. I d. c. in every other stitch, with i ch. between. 

3d row. 20 d. c, 3 ch., 20 d. c, and so on until you have finished 
that round. 

4th row. 18 d. c. in the middle of 20 in row 3, 2 ch., i d. c. in open 
space, 2 ch. 18 d. c, etc. 

You will see that on every row there will be i less on each side of 
the point making more of the open crochets each time. After the point 
is finished, make 1 5 rows of the open crochet. 

The lace on the topis made by making a ch. 140 stitches. 

2d row. Work a d. c. in every 3d stitch with 3 ch. between. 

3d row, 9 d. c. in every other space. 

4th row. 2 ch. fasten in scallop with a s. c, 4 ch., fasten in middle 
of scallop, 4 ch. in same place, 9 ch. in same, 4 ch. fasten, 4 ch. fasten in 
5th stitch, 2 ch. in the end of scallop with this around all the scallops. 
Make the scallop on the opposite side in the same manner. 

Cut a strip of paste board 3 inches wide, and long enough to fit in 
the top of the bag, cover it with satin on both sides. 

Sew the bag after it is lined with thin silk on it, and the lace on each 
edge. Gather the bag together on the bottom and attach a full bow of 
satin ribbon the color of the silk. Two pieces of the same are sewed on 
the top and tied in a bow from which to suspend the receiver. 




^^1 ^t yi^t? 



ptano* 



THE WONDER OFTHE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 

THE MUSICIAN'S DREAM OF PERFECTION REALIZED. 



Tlie B Li A S I U S Piano contains the combined 

improvements of all the famous 

makes in the world. 



Send for Catalogue. 



See what the Vice=Presi= 
dent of the Brainerd & 
ArmstrongCompany says 
about the Blasius Piano. 



—office of— 

The Brainerd & Armstrong Company, 

c21 market street. 

Philadelphia, Oct. 21, 1892. 
Messrs. Blasius & Sons, 

11th and Chestnut Streets : 
Oentlemen:— The Bin sins Piano I purchased from you 
last Spring is giving excellent satisfaction. I am very 
much pleased with it, and you may feel at liberty to 
refer others to nie if you should wish to do so. 
Very truly yours, 

L. O. Smith, 183S Mt. Vernon St. 



BLASIUS & SONS, Mfrs., 



Blasiii.s Piano Works, 
Woodbury, N. J. 



1101, 1103, 1119 Chestnut St. 
Philadelphia, Pa. 



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Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



53 



CROCHET Rings. 







Crocheted rings are used so extensively now that we give the details 
in the above cut, and feel that an explanation is unnecessary. There is 
very little fancy work of to-day in which these rings cannot be effectively 
used. So often when one has finished a large piece of work, a small 
amount of silk is left on the spool ; it is too much to waste, and not 
enough to make up. Here is where the crochet rings come in so nicely. 
It takes so little silk to cover a few rings, and there are so many ways of 
using them, that crochet rings may be considered one of the most pleas- 
ing features of the fancy work of to-day. 



54 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



We suggest a number of Articles in which the 
Crochet Rings figure largely ; they are use- 
ful, ornamental and easily made. 



Card Basket. 

This basket may be used to hold cards, or it will look pretty filled 
with flowers, in which case a round, glass dish must be put in to hold 

the water; the glass should be 
filled with moss and the flowers 
set in that. The basket is com- 
posed of rings worked in crochets 
very closely with knitting silk. 
The rings for the sides measure 
2^ inchesin diameter. To mount 
the rings, place 15 in a line on 
the table, one resdng a little 
over the other ; take a piece of 
strong wire, work over in cro- 
chets with the silk, and thread it 
through the overlapping rings. 
The rings must now be fixed in 
position by a few fine stitches, 
and the ends of the wire sewn securely together and the silk neatly fas- 
tened over it to cover the joining. The bottom is composed of three 
rings of wire. The largest measures 16 inches in circumference, the 
second 13, and the third one 10 inches. They are joined by two straight 
lines of wire, buttonholed over and running both ways. The outer ring 
is sewn to the row of rings forming the sides by a needle and fine silk. 
The handle is composed of 14 rings the size of those at the sides, and 
joined as seen in the illustration 




Rules and Designs for Silk. Knitting. 



SS 



Sleeve Holder, or " Miss nancy." 

This sleeveholder, called "Miss Nancy," is a 
charmingly useful trifle. To use it, slip one ring on 
the first finger, wind the cord around the sleeve closely, 
then slip the other ring over the thumb, and draw the 
coat on. 

The materials necessary are two brass rings and 
Brainerd & Armstrong's Knitting Silks in any pretty 
color, and a medium-sized crochet hook. 

Procure two rings, large enough to slip over the 
thumb and cover them tightly in single crochet. At 
the last ring do not cut silk, but draw out the loop 
one-eighth of an inch and (throw thread over, and 
take up a loop through a st. on the ring,) repeat twice 
more. Then throw thread over and draw through all 
the loops ; now the following Guard stitches are made 
in this manner : Draw out the loop as long as before, 
and take up three loops, throwing the silk over the 
needle, before taking up a loop through the place 
where the first loop on the needle came through. 
Repeat in this way until you have a cord of Guard 
stitches forty inches long. Sew the other ring to the 
end. 




Burnt Match Receiver. 

For this take one of the little glass tumblers usually sold for this 
purpose, and around the top have a row of crochet rings fitting snugly ; 
to these rings fasten the ribbon by which it is hung up and finish at the 
top with a bow. 

Around the lower part of the glass paint tiny sprays of flowers, 
such as daisies, or forget-me-nots, violets, tiny rosebuds, etc. 



Needle Book. 

This is such a pretty trifle for a lady's work basket that every lady 
should possess one. Fourteen brass rings are crocheted, using any pretty 
shade of silk the worker's fancv dictates. 



56 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

Use 7 rings for each side of the needle book, one for the centre and 
the six arranged around this to form a circle. A stitch of silk is brought 
across the centre of each ring, crossed at right angles by another, and 
fastened in the centre by a small knot. 

When the rings are all fastened together, cut out from fine cashmere or 
flannel, leaves to fit the covers. Buttonhole stitch the edges of these 
with silk to match the outside, and when done fasten all securely together^ 
and finish with a bow of baby ribbon. 

Photograph Holder. 

Use a piece of handsome satin or grosgrain ribbon, slightly wider 
than the photograph you wish to frame and twice as long. Fringe out 
the lower edge, and around the sides, the top and the bottom sew crochet 
rings to match the ribbon in color. Slip the photograph under the rings 
and the frame is sure to be pleasing ; sew a ring at the back to hang it 
up by. 

Another frame has a longer piece of ribbon, one end of which is 
passed through three large crochet rings, the other end is finished pre- 
cisely like the preceding frame, and when finished it has the effect of a 
scarf. 

SCISSORS CHATELAINE. 

A very useful arrangement for the scissors has the ribbon by which, 
they are suspended run through 8 crocheted rings, which overlap each 
other. The ribbon is run through the first ring, the next ring is laid on 
top and the ribbon runs in and out, over and under, making a very 
pretty effect. A bow, to which is fastened a safety-pin, completes this 
at the top. 

POSTAL Card Case. 

A beautiful case for a lady's desk is made of two pieces of glass 
slightly larger than a postal card. The edges of the glass are bound 
with ribbon and on one piece is painted a pretty study of flowers. Cro- 
chet rings form the three sides of this box, of which the glass forms the 
top and bottom ; the rings are securely sewed to the ribbon binding and 
thus help form the case. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 57 



MOUCHOIR CASE. 

Very dainty and lovely is a mouchoir case made of silk and crochet 
rings. Four pieces of cardboard are cut heart-shaped, each measuring 
9 inches across. Two pieces are covered plainly with silk, the other two 
have the silk puffed on over a layer of sheet wadding, sprinkled with a 
delicate sachet powder. 

Join a plain and a puffed piece together with neat over and over 
stitches ; do the other just the same. You now have the top and bottom 
of the case. Make the sides of crochet rings sewed all around the edge 
of one heart, and use the padded part for the inside of the case ; the 
other heart forms the lid and can have either a bow of ribbon or a cro- 
chet ring at the point with which to lift it. 

SCARF Wheels. 

Crochet rings form very pretty scarf wheels when arranged with 
taste and neatness ; a very good way is to have wheels formed of 7 rings 
across oae end of the scarf, the other end showing Vandyke points also 
made of the rings. Still another pretty way is to form a circle of crochet 
rings and fill in the centre with threads of silk crossing from side to side, 
and finished in the centre with a tiny spider's web, as done in drawn work. 

One end of the scarf can have 2 rows of these wheels, the little 
spaces between the wheels finished with the cross stitch and spider's web 
also, and across the other end the wheels can form a deep point. 

DRESS Trimming. 

A very handsome and desirable dress trimming can be made of the 
crochet rings finished in the centre with the crossed threads and 
spider's web. One feature of this trimming is that it can be made to 
match any color desired and if carefully sewed on looks equal to the 
handsome passementeries 



58 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 





Twine Bag. 

So many stitches both in crochet and knitting 
can be used for this useful Httle article that nearly 
everybody can make one to suit their own fancy. 
The one illustrated is made in alternate blocks of 
blue and gold. One of the prettiest we have 
noticed, is formed of very small crochet rings, done 
with Brainerd & Armstrong's purse silk, black, 
finished with crimson ribbons and filled with a ball 
of crimson cord. An open work stitch with the 
twine some contrasting color is quite ornamental. 
For such a one the following stitch proves satisfac- 
tory. Make a chain 9 inches long, work * 3 t. c. 
into the 5th stitch of ch., ch. 3, 1 1. c, into same stitch 
as 3 t. c, skip 2 in ch. and repeat from *. Join. 
2d row. Ch. 3, * 3 t. c, ch. 3, i t. c. into ch. of 3 
in first row, repeat from *. All the rows are now 
made the same as the second. The bag should be 
4_^ long, and finished with ribbon and scissors. 



SPOOL BAG. 

Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk % ounce, 
a No. 2 star crochet hook. This little affair is de- 
signed to hold a spool of silk while using it for 
knitting or crocheting. It can be hung on the arm 
and will keep the silk from becoming soiled. The 
bottom is in the shape of a hat and the top cro- 
cheted into it. Chain 3, join, and work with s. c. 
round and round, widening gradually till the hat 
becomes 9 inches in circumference; turn the edge 
over on the right side about an inch and crochet 
the bag into it. ist row. i d. c. in every other 
stitch with I ch. between. 2d row. i d. c. in 
every space, with i ch. between, do 15 rows in all, finish the top with a 
row of shells, and draw a cord and tassel through the 6th row from 
the top. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



59 




Tennis Belt. 

The design we give is suitable for ladies or gentlemen, the only dif- 
ference being in the size. 

Materials. Two spools Brainerd >i Armstrong's Crochet Silk, one 
buckle. Line with sateen or other material interlined with buckram. 

1st row. Chain 28. 

2d row. Chain 2, i treble, chain i, 2 treble in fourth stitch, chain of 
3, 2 treble, chain of i, 2 treble in twelfth stitch, chain of 3, 2 treble, 
chain of I, 2 treble in twentieth stitch, chain 3, 2 treble, chain i, 2 treble 
in twenty-eighth stitch. This gives 4 shells. 

3d row. Same as second. 

4th row. Chain of 3, i treble, i chain, 2 trebles in tirst shell, chain 
of 2, catch the chain of second and third rows, chain of 2, 2 treble, 

1 chain, 2 treble in second shell, chain 2, catch second and third chain, 

2 chain, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble in third shell, 2 chain, catch second 
and third row, 2 chain, 2 treble, i chain, 2 treble in fourth shell, and so 
on until you have the 28 inches. 



6o 



The Brainekd &'Armstkoxg Co.s 




Crocheted tassel. 

A very useful little affair, easily 
made, and very desirable to ornament 
fancy bags, scarfs, lambrequins, etc. 

Use Brainerd & Armstrong's Cro- 
chet Silk, or if a still harder twisted 
silk is wanted ask for Victoria Purse 
Twist. No. 2 crochet hook. 

To make a tassel the size of the 
engraving, lap the silk 40 times around 
cardboard 5 inches long. Work 25 
stitches around the hank or skein 
from centre to outside, forming the 
top of the tassel, join, turn, chain 3, 
take up second stitch of 25 with short 
crochet, chain i, take up fourth stitch, 
and so on making 13 holes, turn chain 
3, go in every hole making 13 holes in 
that row, with single crochet stitch and 
chain i between, turn, fasten in first 
hole, chain 4, take first and upper part 
of stitches and fasten in first hole with 
single crochet, chain i, fasten in sec- 
ond hole, chain 4 and take up the 
first and upper part of last stitch, 
fasten, chain i, and continue, making 
13 points. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



6i 




A PANSY IN MOUNTMELLICK WORK. 



Mountmellick Work. 

DESIGNS of large flowers and 
leaves, trailing vines, etc., look particu- 
larly well in this work ; and borders for 
mantles, table-covers, and curtains can 
be very effectively decorated with it. 
The pattern is stamped as for ordinary 
embroidery and the designs and stitches 
used are such as will have the richest 
effect. Conventional roses, sun-flowers 
and lilies are very desirable ; also the 
passion-flower, ivy, chestnut ; and Pome- 
granates, too, are very handsome, ears 
of wheat and barley, grapes, berries, 
etc., all work in well. All Mountmellick 
work has, where this is possible, a heavy 
outline, often in buttonhole stitch, and 
sometimes in French-knot stitch ; but stem or outline stitch is also used 
for the veining of leaves, and for outlining leaves and flowers. Pan- 
sies in buttonhole stitch and point de Bruxelles are very handsome and 
not at all difficult. Our cut on this page is so clear that further description 
is unnecessary. On page 62 we give a spray of blackberries and leaves 
which is very showy. The berries are worked in close clusters of French 
knots, with very large ones in the centre to give a raised appearance. 
The blossoms of palest pink are done in raised satin stitch worked length- 
ways over a closely padded foundation, with a centre of three French 
knots. The lower part of the stem is done in laid stem stitch, a spike 
stitch put in here and there on each side to represent a thorn ; the remain- 
der of the stem is done in ordinary stem stitch. For the leaves, one is 
outlined in French knots and filled in with bullion stitches, while the other 
is done in satin stitch with the stem stitch through the centre. Page 63 
illustrates a maiden-hair fern ; this is a beautiful decoration for many 
articles, and they are very easily worked. Satin stitch running from top 
to bottom of leaf is the only one employed, except for the stem, which is 
worked throughout in stem stitch. The dainty green, embroidered on 
cream color, or pale pink, will be found very pretty. On page 65 you 
will find a branch of passion flowers and leaves, very showy and hand- 
some. 



62 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




SPRAY OF BLACKBERRIES AND LEAVES. 
^Description on page 6i.) 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



63 




MAIDEN HAIR FERN. 
(Description on pag« 61,) 



64 The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 

Passion Flowers and leaves. 

This beautiful vine with its clearly cut leaves and blossoms is peculi- 
arly graceful and readily adapted to almost any purpose ; as a bordering 
it is quite unequaled. For the stem, except in the delicate tendrils, chain 
stitch is very suitable, and outline stitch for the rings. The lower leaf in the 
illustration is buttonholed all around, and veined through the centre with 
French knots ; while the upper one is outlined with French knots and 
filled in with herring-bone. This kind of leaf is outlined with stem stitch 
or not, according to the fancy of the worker, but outlining gives it a more 
finished look. The flower petals are worked across in well-raised satin 
stitch, and if outlined with gold thread will be all the handsomer. For 
the crown, a circle or half circle (as the flower appears more or less full) 
of bullion stitches, while the centre is of satin stitch, highly raised. From 
this centre proceed five small stamens (the sacred stigma) composed of 
one or two outline stitches with a tiny French knot at the end of each. 

In Mountmellick work quite a number of stitches are sometimes 
used in the same design, as you will have seen by the preceding descrip- 
tions and illustrations, the object in view being to make the embroidery 
appear as rich as possible. Still, a large leaf worked solid in rows of 
buttonhole stitch, while it seems odd and inartistic, is really very effect- 
ive. There is, however, a method of doing it and an attention to little 
details, which gives the proper finish. The rows are worked from the 
centre of the leaf (through which you first run a line of stem stitch) to 
the outer edge, and the silk must not be fastened off at the end of a row. 
but turned to work the next line backwards, and so on through one side 
of the leaf. The other side is worked in the same manner. With these 
suggestions about this particular branch of embroidery, we will pass on 
to other things, and leave you to display your skill in that line to suit 
your own fancy, and will be delighted to furnish the silks used in your 
work. 



Rules and Designs fok Silk Knitting. 



65 




PASSION FLOWERS AND LEAVES. 
(Description, page 64.) 




CrocliLeted. 

SUSPENDERS 



(e. m. w.) 



MATERIALS. 

1 1-2 ounces 
Brainerd & Armstrong's 
Crochet SiIL\ and a No. 2 Cro- 
chet Hook'. 



DIRECTIONS. 

1st row. — Chain 24. 

2d row, — Turn, and count- 
ing back, do 3 d. c. in 4th stitch of 
chain ; do 4 d. c. in 8th stitch, and 
continue to the end of chain, mak- 
ing 6 shells, 

3d row, — Turn, chain 4 ; 3 d, 
c, in space between first 2 of last 
shell in 2d row ; 4 d. c, between 
first 2 of 2d and remaining shells ; 
4th and following rows same as 3d. 

Make each suspender 27 inches 
long, and line with No. 9 ribbon. 

(see advertisement opposite PA&p.) 



V/7 



€)] 



(k 



YOU CAN GET 

SILK SUSPENDERS TRIMMED 

BY SENDING THEM 

TO 



JL, B.S 



. . BOX 82 ■ . 
WATERBURY, CONN. 

He Mses Silk Covered Elastit- Eiuls 
anrt Gold Plated Buckles. 

Make the suspenders 54 inches long, in one piece, 
and not over 1)4 inches wide. 

White silk ends for light colors, and black 
for dark colors. Be sure and state which you prefer. 



PRICE, $1.50 PER PAIR. 
BUCKLES ALONE, 25C. PER PAIR. 



// voi{ 7i'is/i to trim them yourself, everything- 
required will be setit for ,fl.OO. 



IS 



19 



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Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



67 



CROCHETED FAN TiDY. 

Materials. — 3 balls Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk, and a 
No. 2 star crochet hook. 




Chain of 10 or 12 stitches. 

Do not join, but turn and make 5 rows of single bars in long crochet, 
25 bars in each row, looping between bars till 5 rows are made. Chain i 
between bars in 5th row, 4 rows of 2 bars, looping into shell and no stitch 
between. 4 rows of 3 bars, no stitch between, i row of 4 bars, no stitch 
between, i row of 2 bars with i stitch between, and thread over twice 
from here. 4 rows of 4 bars, no stitch between. 4 rows of 5 bars, no 
stitch between, i row of 6 bars, no stitch between, i row of 12 bars, 
no stitch between, and thread over 3 times. 

Fringe made in alternate spaces, and finish 3^ inches deep. 

Silk slippers. 

pattern originated by miss e. m. wight. 




Materials. — \}i ounces Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk. I 
pair No. 4 lamb's wool soles, a No. 2 steel hook, i yard of elastic cord 
and ribbon for bows. 



68 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Chain 25. 

I St row. — Make i double crochet in 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, loth, 
nth and 12th stitches of chain ; 3 d. c. in 13th stitch, and i d. c. in each 
remaining stitch of chain. 

2d row. — Chain 3 ; id. c. in each d. c. of previous row, taking up 
the under loop of stitch each time. Widen each row by making 3 d. c. 
in middle stitch of preceding row. Continue until there are 24 rows. 

25th row. — Chain 3; do i d. c. in each stitch of last row until there 
are 24 d. c. 

26th row. — Chain 3, and continue as before until there are 78 rows. 
Join this to toe of slipper, and finish top with d. c, in which run elastic 
cord. On top of this make a row of shells. 



Lamp Shade. 

(e. m. w.) 




Materials. — i yard of lace, i ounce of crochet silk, 10 ^-inch 
rings, and 40 ^-inch rings. 

Wheel. — Cover ^-inch ring for centre. 

Chain 14, turn, do 22 s. c. over chain and fasten to centre, turn ; s. c. 
in each of 22, turn, s. c. in first 5 of last row ; chain 5 ; s. c. in 5th of 
last row, and 4 following ; chain 5 ; s. c. in 9th, and 4 following ; chain 
5, s. c. in 13th, and 4 following. Chain 5, s. c. in 17th and remaining 
stitches to centre. This makes i of the 6 spokes of wheel. Join end of 
each spoke to 2d picot of preceding spoke. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



69 



The 10 wheels are sewed to plain edge of lace, and a ring is sewed 
to the top and i to the bottom of each wheel. The bottom ring holds 
fringe ; 20 rings crocheted together are fastened to top rings on wheels, 
and a cord of silk is run through these 20 rings to be used as a draw 
string. 



CROCHETED HANDKERCHIEF CASE. 

Materials. — i ounce Brainerd & Armstrong's crochet silk, No. 4 
steel hook, and crochet loosely. Two yards No. i ribbon for a draw 
string. 

Chain 230, join. 

1st row. — I double crochet 
in first stitch of chain, and one 
in second 2 chain, pass by 2 
stitches, I double crochet in 
next 2 stitches, repeat till chain 
is filled. 

2d row. — 7 double crochet 
in first shell of ist row, i single 
crochet in next shell. 

3d row. — Chain 6, catch 
with a single crochet in middle 
of shell. 

4th row. — Like ist. 

5th row. — Like 2d. 

6th row. — Like 3d. 

7th row. — Like ist. 

8th row. — Like 2d. 

9th row. — Like 3d. 
loth row. — Like ist. 

I shell of 2 double crochets, shell come directly over the shell 
of 7 double crochets, and the other shell of 2 double between the shells 
of 7 double. 

Repeat this 10 times, putting the shell between shell of previous 
row. Finish with a large shell of 7 double crochets with picots. Cut a 
cardboard 6 inches square, cover with silk or satin, and sew the crocheted 
piece on. 




yo ■ Thk Brainkkd & Akm.stro.ng Co.s 



Fancy Work Made with Silk-Faced Figured terry 
AND art Satin. 

(If i>ot f.imiliar witli ihe goods write us for samples. — B. & A. Co.) 

A beautiful blanket for a baby carriage is made of white Figured 
Terry, bordered with white moss fringe. la one corner is a bunch of 
pansy blossoms in outhne, tied with streaming ribbons also in ouUine, 
embroidered with pale lemon-colored rope silk. A few pansies are scat- 
tered here and there over the blanket. 

A sofa cushion of Figured Terry of soft, cream tint, shows across 
one corner a close mesh iish-net of tan-colored rope silk. Over the re- 
maining part of the cover are scattered })ansies in outline filled in with 
fish-net. The edge is finished with moss fringe, thick and tliiffy, match- 
ing in color the Figured Terry. 

Pretty stand eovens are made of same material, with all-over 
patterns embroidered with silk. A four-leaved clover design, on a warm 
brown body, is very pietty, the leaves being outlined with tinsel, and 
filled in with lace stitch in moss green shades. Another striking design 
is a passion fiower in outline embroidery filled in with net of softly shaded 
purples. The cloth is cream tint, and fringe of cream and lilac. 

Much beautiful work is bestowed upon tt»ay eloths, doilies, nap- 
kins for covering hot biscuits, etc. A pretty tray cloth is of tine sheer 
linen, with a hem-stitched border and corners of drawn work. Over the 
centre of the cloth is a graceful design of cornflowers in scroll pattern, 
embroidered with blue silk. 

R tfay cloth and doilies with eglantine embroidery of pale pink 
tints are delicately pretty. The embroidery is in long and short stitch, a 
bunch of the flowers being placed in one corner and tied with streaming 
ribbons, three or four single blossoms being scattered elsewhere on the 
cloth. The doilies are fringed to the depth of an inch. Still another has 
sprigs of heather thrown lightly over the cloth, and another is bordered 
all around with sprays of maiden-hair fern, which overlap each other 
with artistic irregularity. These are finished with hem-stitched border 
and drawn work about an inch wide above the hem. The doilies show 
a single sprig or spray, and may be either hemmed or fringed. The 
green embroidery looks cool and fresh on the snowy linen. 

A very handsome mouehoit* ease may be made of black figured 
lined with old rose. Dropped lightly over the black exterior are 
Lady Washington geranium blossoms in oil colors. The case is edged 
with a heavy cord of silk in black and rose. Tlie contrast in color is 
striking and extremely rich. 



RuLKS AND Designs for Sii.k. Knittinc;. 



71 



Ascot Scarf. 

Materials. T\v.) ounces of Brainerd & Armstrong's Crochet Silk 
and a No. 2 Star crochet hook. 

Directions: ist row. Chain 48. 

2d row. Turn, and counting back do 3 d. c. in fourth stitch of ch., 
do 4 d. c. in eighth st. and continue to end of chain, leaving 3 stitches 

between the shells. There should 






\ 11 






"j^-* 






be 12 shells. 

3d row. Turn, ch. 3, do 3 
d. c. in space between fust 2 d. c. 
of last shell in second row, and 
4 d. c. between first 2 in next 
and remaining shells. 

4th and continuous rows 
same as third. Make this part 
of work laj-z inches long. 

Next row. Turn, ch. 3, do 
3 d. c. in space between first 
2d c. of last shell in previous 
row, and 4 d. c. between first 
2 in next and the 10 following 
shells, do 3 d. c. in space be- 
tween first 2 d. c. of twelfth or 
last shell. 

Next row. Same, narrow- 
ing I stitch in last shell. 

Next row. Ch. 3, do2d. c. 
in space between first 2 d. c. of 
last shell in previous row, etc., narrowing i stitch in first and last shell of 
each row until you have only 10 shells. 

Then begin narrowing as at first, i stitch in last shell of each row 
until 2 sts. remain, then i st. in first and last shell of each row. 
Repeat until you have only 4 shells remaining. 

This part of work [or band] should be 8 inches long, making in all 
231^ inches. This completes one-half the tie, bind off, make other half 
the same, join two ends of band. 

Line ne-^k Ixind with ribbon same width. 



fe5 



r^ 



J" 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Crochet Garters. 




Brainerd & Armstrong crochet silk, J< ounce. 

Make a chain of 19 stitches, ist row. Work 4 s. c. into foundation 
chain, ch. 1 1, work 4 s. c. into last four stitches of foundation chain. 2d 
row. Make a ch. of 3 stitches in turning, 4 s. c. into 4 s. c, ch. 11,4 s. c. 
into 4 s. c. 3d row. 4 s. c. into 4 s. c, ch. 6, fasten into the centre of two 
of the chains of 1 1 with s. s., chain 5, 4 s. c. into 4 s. c, repeat from the 
beginning until you have 84 rows, then join and crochet a small shell all 
around both edges. Run silk elastic through the centre, leaving the 
joined chains on the right side, and finish with a bow of ribbon. 



iiiii 



This second cut is another style of garter easily made by crocheting 
to and fro on the chain of 11, with s. c. instead of joining the chains. The 
shell on the edge is made with a little picot between each stitch. The 
picot is formed by making a chain of 3 and fastening with s. s. back into 
the first stitch of said chain. Draw the elastic through and finish with 
bow of ribbon the same as in first directions. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



73 



Illustrated Embroidery Stitches. 




OUTLINE STITCH, OR STEM 

STITCH 



VERY lover of needlework will appreciate the pains and expense 
curred to get explanations, drawings and engravings to illus- 
trate the following stitches used in embroidery. 
By reading carefully the directions, and observing the drawings 
opposite, any one may be able to understand and make them. 

Oulline SUfch consists of a long stitch 
forward on the face of the material, and a very 
short stitch back on the under side. This is also 
called cordins^ stitch, or stem stitch. When the 
needle is brought up through the preceding 
stitch, instead of be- 
side it, the work be- 
comes split stitch. 



Chain Stitch 

is made by bringing 
the needle through a 
loop of the silk, each 
loop forming a link 
like a chain. 




CHAIN STITCH. 



BRIER, FEATHER, OR CORAL 

STITCH. 





Brier, feather, or coral stitch, of 

several varieties, is made by bringing the 
needle out over a loop of the silk, each loop 
forming a branch. 



74 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



ILLUSTRATED EMBROIDERY STITCHES. 



FRENCH KNOT. 




French knot is made by twisting the 
needle once or twice around the thread, passing 
the needle straight down through the material, 
and drawing the knot tight. 



Bullion, wound 
or Poin t de Minute 
stitch, is formed by 
coiling thread tightly 
around the needle, 
drawingthe needleand 
thread through the 
-J coil.laying the coil out 
for the desired length, 
then passing the needle down through the ma- 
terial, to hold the coil in place. 



BULLION, OR POINT DE 

MINUTE. 




SATIN STITCH. 



\V;>'i 



it 




S<it in stitch consists of regular long 
stitches, closely laid together to represent a. 
smooth, raised, satin-like effect. 

QUEEN ANNE, OR DARNING. 



Queen Anne, or tveaving stitch, is a 

regular, fine darning. Darning, of various 
kinds, is now largely used in embroidery, 
principally in backgrounds. 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



75 



Illustrated embroidery stitches. 

kensington filling-in. 



Kensington fllling-in stitch is an 

irregular kind of satin stitch. 

BIRD'S EYE. 




Bit'iVs-eye is a sort of chain stitch, from 
a central point, the loop caught down by a short 
stitch. 



BEADiNG. 





Beading stitch is a loop or knot, formed 
over the principal thread. 



LAID STEM STITCH, OR 
OVERCAST. 



Laid stem stitcJi is similar to satin 
stitch, or overcast stitch, but is worked over an 
x)utline, giving it a raised effect. 




76 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



ILLUSTRATED EM BROIDERY STITCH ES. 



TWISTED. 




Twisted stitch. — One thread is twisted 
around another, and the two held in place by in- 
visible stitches. 

BUTTONHOLE STITCH, OR 
SCALLOP STITCH. 



Buttonhole stitch, or sctillop stitch, 

is that bordering stitch seen in the edges of 
ordinary flannel embroidery. 



LADDER STITCH. 





Ladder stitch. — The outhnes are tirst 
traced, theedges worked in buttonhole stitch, the 
rounds of the ladder in overcast, or over-seam 
stitch, and the material between the rounds of 
the ladder cut away. 



tTanina stitch resembles a broad cross- 
stitch. 




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ART NEEDLEWORK. 



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Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



77 



Illustrated embroidery Stitches. 

COUCHING. 



Con^ihing consists in laying down one 
or more cords, and securing them by regular 
stitches. When one fine thread is used in place 
of a cord, the work is caWed. tracing, or tracing- 
stitch. 

ITALIAN, OR HOLBEIN. 



ilii 




Italian, or Holbein stitches, are per- 
pendicular, horizontal, or diagonal short 
stitches, suitable for canvas embroidery, 

POINT DE RUSSE. 








Point Russe consists of any number or 
order of artistically disposed long stitches. 



Dot stitch is a mere point, also called seed stitch, used for light 
filling-in. It is made like an ordinary back stitch, except that the needle 
is not put back to the place from which it is drawn out, but an interval 
about the length of a stitch remains unworked. 

Plush stitch consists in couching pieces of silk upon the material 
by one invisible stitch in the centre of each piece, and raising the ends up 
like the pile of plush or velvet, trimming the top smooth, if necessary. 



78 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



New Stitches in Embroidery. 




mi NUMBER of new stitches have recently made their appearance 
in art embroidery. They are not, strictly speaking, new, but 
are, in reality, old ones revived. Their adaptation, however, 
is new. Among the stitches newly adapted are the following : 
Gobelin stitch is one copied from old 
tapestries. It is a filling stitch but it differs 
from Kensington filling in being strictly reg- 
ular instead of irregular. It is worked some- 
what like satin or laid stitch, but it need not 
necessarily be so close — it is rather a system 
than a stitch and is not used for thin leaves 
and stems where satin stitch proper would 
be allowable. Gobelin stitch takes the form 
of long straight lines — whether these lines 
are perpendicular, diagonal or horizontal, all 
used in the same pattern must be parallel to 
each other, so far as possible. The completed 
work often shows a series of stripes or blocks 
of exactly the same width, so far as the pattern 
will allow. Gobelin stitch is used to fill large 
leaves, arabesques and backgrounds in con- 
ventional patterns. 

ISMiT STITCH is one borrowed from Tur- 
kish embroideries. It is used to fill long 
leaves and petals and is generally seen in con- 
ventional roses. It is a broad cat stitch, adap- 
ted to the shape of the petal. It somewhat 
resembles Janina, but is looser, not giving the 
effect of a vein down the middle as Janina 
does. To work Ismit stitch, begin at the tip 
of the petal and work from yo'^ ismit stitch. 




GOBELIN STITCH. 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



79 



Bulgarian stitch is a system 
borrowed from the Oriental embroid- 
eries which are executed with the 
finest silks. It may be described as 
an artistic combination of back stitch 
and outline, or even outline alone. 
The stitches, of course, are not of the 
same length, but adapt themselves to 
the curves of the pattern. Bulgarian 
differs from ordinary outline in that it 
gives the effect of satin stitch or Ken- Bulgarian stitch, 

sington filling, and it differs from these in that it always proceeds along 
the length of the pattern, never diagonally nor crosswise. 




Darning, of the kind commonly 
known as " running," is now largely 
used in decorative needlework. It is 
now the practice to outline a spray of 
flowers with one pale tint, and let the 
foundation-material itself constitute 
the filling. The background is then 
made by running in threads of bright 
color. The darning itself is simple 
enough, but it may be made as effect- 
DARNiNG. ive as one chooses. The stitches may 

be of regular or irregular lengths — they may form regular rows and pat- 
terns, or be as fantastically disposed as desired. One color may be used 
or half a dozen. Tapestry effects may be copied, and, in some cases, 
water, sky or grasses suggested. The straight lines of Gobelin filling 
stitch, described above, may be imitated in darning. If it is desired to 
use running stitches in the pattern and not in the background, the hori- 
zontal lines may appear only on the outline, giving the effect of what is 
generally known as half-solid Kensington. 




So 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Half-solid Kensington. As will be 
seen by the illustration, Half-solid Kensing- 
ton is done in the regular satin or filling 
stitch. If a similar effect is to be brought 
out with running stitches, of course all the 
lines will be either horizontal or perpendicu- 
lar, to correspond with the threads of the 
material. One color, or at most a few, is all 
that can be employed — the proper colors 
must come to the surface in the proper 
places, the greater part being kept under- 
neath. If desired a different color may be 
run in for a background. 




HALF-SOLID KENSINGTON. 




BRICK COUCHING. 



Brick couching is derived from 
old ecclesiastical embroideries. It dif- 
fers from ordinary couching in that the 
threads are sewed down so as to form 
a regular pattern like brick-work. It 
may be varied by taking two or more 
threads at a time, or by placing several 
crossing threads in one group. Brick 
couching is particularly suitable for 
rope-silk embroidery. Gold cord was 
the material originally used. Brick 

couching is not the same as brick stitch, of which an example is here 

given. 

Brick stitch is in reality a 
system of running or darning. 
First run a row of stitches of the 
same length, with a space of the 
same length between each two 
stitches. Then run another row 
in the same line, so that the stitches 
will come in the spaces left vacant. 
Make a number of rows in the 
same way, keeping all the rows the 
same distance apart. These con- brick stitch. 

stitute the horizontal lines of the brick-work. Now run in the perpendic- 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



8i 




POINT DE BRUXELLES. 



Point de Feston. 



ular lines, seeing that they alternate properly. One perpendicular always 
runs from the middle of one brick to the space between the two above it 
Of course, in running the horizontal lines, care must be taken to have 
the stitches alternate, the space between two 
coming opposite the middle of another. Brick 
stitch is suitable for filling large leaves in con- 
ventional designs. Rope silk may be used 
for the purpose, so may silk cord. 

Point de Bruxelles. What some call 
brick, basket or box stitch is in reality an old 
point-lace stitch— Point de Bruxelles, or Brus- 
sels Point. It is simply a loose buttonhole 
stitch. The loops may be drawn into various 
shapes as desired. Point de Bruxelles is not 
the only lace stitch now introduced into art 
needlework, as will be seen from the follow- 
ing : 

This will be easily recognized by those who are 
familiar with antique lace, or as it should be called, Guipure d'Art. This 

kind of lace is made on a coarse net- 
ting composed of squares, upon which 
are worked the lace stitches. 

Point de Feston is a triangular 
mass worked across the corner of a 
square. It consists of a series of loops 
around the foundation thread, the net- 
ting being turned from side to side in 
working, so as to form a woven leaf 
somewhat as in Ismit stitch. Begin in 
the corner of the square, throw the threa.d/ro;n you towards the left, pass 
the needle under the perpendicular thread and up again between the 
floating thread and the corner ; draw close. Then turn the work side- 
wise ; do the same over the horizontal thread. Repeat alternately. 

The netting upon which Guipure d' Art is made is generally called 
filet. To make such a netting with the needle constitutes the lace stitch 
known as Point de Filet. Backgrounds, leaves, etc., are now some- 
times filled with a needlework imitation of Point de Filet, as seen in 
illustration. Upon this is then executed the Point de Feston. A regu- 
lar, close darning or weaving of the kind now generally called Queen 




POINT DE FESTON. 



82 



The Brainekd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Anne is like the lace stitch known as Point de Toile — only in this but 
one thread is used. 

Besides point-lace stitches, Crochet Stitches are often introduced 
into embroidery. A series of single crochet stitches very readily imitate 
close buttonhole stitch. Sometimes these are worked over brass rings 
or stout cords, and then fastened to a pattern like applique figures. Petals 
are frequently worked separately in double crochet, and then applied. A 
simple row of picots, loops or chains sometimes constitutes a very effect- 
ive edging. 



Cat stitch. With this issue, we pre- 
sent our readers with a better illustration of 
old-fashioned cat stitch than before. 

Border stitch. Also with a variety 
thereof known as border stitch. In cat 
stitch, work from you ; in border stitch, to- 
ward you. Both of these stitches are some- 
times called 
Herring-bone. 



Herring- 
bone. Another 
kind of Herring- 
bone is made in 
much the same 
way as Brier, 
Coral or Feather 
Stitch, which only 
differ a little in 
the number of 
branches and the 
give a variety on 




BORDER STITCH. 

slant of the needle, 
page 83. 



We 




HERRING-BONE. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



83 




Single brier stitch, which may be 
known by its regular slant. Otherwise it is 
not very different from loose buttonhole 
stitch or Point de Bruxelles. 



SINGLE BRIER STITCH. 



Double Chain. This may be recom- 
mended as the most elegant edging for ap- 
plique figures. Work two rows of plain 
chain stitch, then take a third thread and lace 
the two rows together by their inner edges. 





DOUBLE CHAIN. 



Persian stitch resembles Cat, Janina 
or Ismit, but differs from all of these in that 
three threads are carried by the needle at 
once, and the crossings overlap each other, 
the needle always coming up at the edge in 
the opening between two stitches previously 
taken. When finished a row of Persian em- 
broidery looks like a band of braid. 



PERSIAN stitch. 



84 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 



Roman stitch is a mode of filling a leaf, 
and at the same time forming a vein down 
the centre. The stitches are like laid or 
satin stitch, but they are caught down in the 
centre as in couching. Begin at the tip of 
the leaf on the left side, lay the thread 
across to the right, put the needle down, 
bring it up in the middle of the leaf, between 
yourself and the laid thread ; put the needle 
down again, from you and over the laid 
thread ; bring it up again beside the point at rqman stitch. 

which it first came up at the beginning and 
proceed as before. 

Leviathan stitch. This is one of the 
old tapestry filling stitches. It is really a 
double cross stitch. When made much 
larger, it constitutes Star stitch. 





LEVIATHAN STITCH. 



Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



85 



Proper Shades in Wash Silks. 

)0 aid ladies in the selection of proper colors of silk to be used in 
embroidery, we have prepared the following list of popular 
flowers, with the appropriate shades for each, the numbers given 
referring to our color-card. These numbers apply to Rope 
Silk, English Twisted, Etching Silk, Roman Floss, Filo Floss, and Medi- 
aeval Silk. 



Golden-rod, . 
Daisy, 

Daisy Leaves, 
Wild Rose (light), 
Wild Rose (dark), . 
Pansy (light), . 
Pansy (dark), 
Violet (light), 
Violet (dark). 
Marigold, . 
Trumpet, 
Coxcomb, . 
Stems for Branches, 
Stems for Flowers, 
MuUins, . 
Cat-Tails, . 
Apple Blossoms, 
Carnation, . 
Clematis, . • 

Heliotrope, 



COLORS FOR FLOWERS. 

2012, 2013, 2015, 2016 

2013, 2016, 2001, 2460 
2080, 2081, 2083, 2380 
2470a, 2470, 2471, 2472, 2473 
2473, 2474, 2475, 2476 
2040, 2041, 2042, 2043 
2473, 2474, 2475, 2476 
2520, 2232, 2523 

2232, 2522, 2522a, 2523 

2013, 2014, 2015 

2153, 2154, 2155, 2017, 2018, 2019 

2155, 2156, 2067 

2553.2554.2555,2556 

2482, 2483, 2484 

2430,2430a, 2431. 2432 

2555, 2556.2124 

2470a, 2470, 2473 

2470a, 2062, 2476, 2156 

2001, 2170 

2040, 2520, 2232 



We are now issuing in book-form a small color-card, showing 
samples of 200 shades of wash silks, with the number attached to each 
shade, so that any lady can order from any storekeeper the exact colors 
required, thus enabling her to economize by selecting the shades best 
adapted to the work. This we will mail to any address on receipt of 10 
cents in postage stamps, although the card itself cost us more than twice 
as much. If, hbwever, it leads the public to order our silks, we shall feel 
fully repaid for the outlay. 



86 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 




Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting. 



87 




88 . The Brainerd & Armstrong Co.'s 





If you A\ ant the Best A fA ryy \ r\ k 

* S 1 AK * 
CROCHET NEEDLES. 

HOOK PATENTED OCTOBER 23, 1883. 

We make the best Crochet Needle in the market. Our needles are made 
by a process that insures for each hook a round, smooth surface that will not fray 
or cut the material used. The hook, although deeply cut, is strong, and is nar- 
rowed at the sides so that it will draw through the work easily; the points are 
so shaped that they will not split yarn or thread. These qualities allow our needles 
to work easily and smoothly, without either fraying the work or roughening the 
lingers. 

These are the only Crochet Needles made with smooth Hooks. They are 
known to the trade everywhere as Star Brand Crochet Needles. 

Buy of your home dealer if he keeps this brand ; if you cannot get these 
needles we will supply you from the factory. Send /br /rice- /is/. 

MANUFACTURED BY 

ALLENDER & KNOUS, 

Greystone Needle Works, 

GREYSTONE, CONN. 



How to Measure Spool Silk. 




IT WILL PA Y VOL 



TRY IT. 



Take two large shawl pins, or medium-sized nails, set tliem slanting, just a yard apart, 
and drive into a board or old table until they set firm. 

Tie the thread to one pin and wind around and around as shown in the above cut. 

If a 50 or I03 yard spool ol our Silk can be found that runs two yards less than marked, 
we will present an extra spool. 

After measuring the Silk, you can easily wind it back upon the spool. If any accident 
should tangle the Silk, send it to us, even if not our goods, and we will cheerfully give you a new 
spool for it. 

NOTE. — Every manufacturer has a system and rule for puttinij up each brand of silk. 
For instance, in a given Brand all colors measure alike. All " B," "C," and " D" spools 
measure alike. Therefore, when you measure a spool of " C," you may be reasonably sure that 
all " C " spools in that Brand will measure the same. 



Reasons why every Lady should measure ONE SPOOL at least of every Brand 
she proposes to patronize. 

1. It protects you from imposition. 

2. It protects and sustanis those who put up honest, full-length goods. 

3. It will drive short-length goods out of the market, when ladies kn:)w them and refuse 
to accept them. ^^^^^^^^^^_,^ 

A Hint as to vihat is likely to measure less than One Hundred Yards, 

If Silk is cut short anywhere, it is almost certain^to be on " D," "C," or " B " Black 
All cheap silks are either short length or improperly lettered, especially in the coarser sizes 
Measure spools marked No. 70, No. 60, etc., both in colors and black. Probably not one lady 
in a hundred is aware of the actual m'.asurements of the above goods. 

NOTE.— Retailers depend largely upon the testimony of customers relative to the merits of 
different goods, and unless some preference is e.xpressed, they naturally and wisely buy that 
which pays bes' We are under many obligations to the ladies who have investigated the merits 
of different goods, and they will please accept our thanks for sustaining and calling for the Brain- 
erd and Armstrong Silk. 

The Brainerd & Armstrong Co. 

(90) 



One Dollar's Worth for 40 Gents, 




'^c-^C*^ YoiJ u/ill be sure to liK© it. 



Equivalent to One Dollar's 
Worth of Skeins. 

IT CONSISTS OFTcory Ends. Odd Lengths and Assorted Conors, and . soM . 
.- tl^an l.lf .he price of reguJa^rJUein E.Wde.y^^ fo^.a. ^^ 

? Is SoZd 40 cts a Box (x ounce). ,-";P-';P^f,,:'^cT^i^U entitle you to one ounce 
A CLUB ORDER for ten ounces, with ;j4co reuni. 

extra without charge. .. 

NOTICE-What^we cannot do. 

THE WHY AND WHEREFORE. 

. ^ ;, wP r.n sell this Waste Embroidery at such a low 

Some people cannot understand how we c.n 
*^- Wll^t;!^^ ^t;"Lrt pieces irom the .acu,r^ TV. Tne^^ar^rom , to to 

y-'^^. S^^tZS^"^^.^^^^^^^^ ''-'' "' ''^"" Wor.re.u.ng 
various colors. i «.oW» cmnds it must be sold at a Inss 

^\^^!t^Ai^t'\^^^ Unotsand Imper- 

.ctioJ:r^^^^i^pq^^^;^.f \?^^-^ - '^^" "^ ""'^ ^°" "^ :; 

moneyorder ^H F BRAI N ERD & ARMSTRONG CO., 



Hmbroidery Silk 
On Quills. 



The greatest improvement yet made in Embroidery Silk is ©ur invention of winding one 
skein (long skein) on a paper quill. Retails at one cent (ten cents per dozen). Wherever in 
troduced it supersedes the skeins. 




ladies are Deli^l^ted 

VUltl^ it. Cut Showing Quill Embroidery. 

NO MORE BOTHER WITH UNDOING SKEINS AND WINDING ON PAPER. 

NO TANGLING, NO FRAYING, NO FADING. 

NO TROUBLE FOR MERCHANTS TO KEEP STOCK IN ORDER. 

f\T)ot\}qr Importapt Qoi^sidi^ratio^. 

The competition on Skein Silk, and the attempt to close it out, is bringing the price 
down, down, down, compelling manufacturers to put up small skeins and make the thread finer 
and finer. In less than one year, skeins will be so deteriorated in size, quantity and 
quality, that it will be unsatisfactory. 

OUR EMBROIDERY ON QUILLS WILL BE SUSTAINED. 
FULL LENGTH SKEIN, THREE YARDS, FULL SIZE THREAD. 
AND THE CHOICEST QUALITY OF STOCK. 



f{s\[ for tl^e Qijill Embroidery S\% 

See if it is Qot just as U/e Say. 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co 



p. S. — Shaded EnDbroidery Sill< is put up on the patent quills also, and selJs at the 
same price. 

(0-1 



Braiperd G ^rmstrop^'s 

fictoria BraiiJsiiIniDf SI 



3Hgwashc^ 



PURE THREAD SILK FOR CROCHETING, KNITTING AND 
EMBROIDERY. 



This Brand of Knitting Silk is made from tlie long fibre of Reeled Cocoons, and 
is noted for brUliancy and lustre, making it especially adapted to Crocheting Fancy 
Work, Baby Caps, Sacks, and all articles of an ornamental character. 

For Embroidery and Ijace the effect is fine 

FAST COLiORS.— By our new discovery in dyeing:, we malse these 
colors faster than any knittings Silk known 

In stockings and mittens tliis silk will not stain the feet and hands 
as other makes do 

Most makes of silk stain the feet so as to be positively injurious to health, and it 
is only by our new and secret process of dyeing that we are able to avoid it. 
If you cannot get this silk from your storekeeper, please notify us by mail. 

THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO. 

(93) 



NEW NEW NEW 

Silk paced Terry 

CUT IN SQUARES 

. .25x25 for Cushions and Table Covers . . 

. . 30 X 30 for Table Covers . . 

. . 50 X 50 for Table Covers . . 

and 

. . 20 X 60 for Table and Bureau Scarfs . . 



\ T3 ''T^ ^^ \ >*-TA T -[V T CAN BE HAI> IN SAME 



SI^ES AS ABOVE. 



. . We make various patterns of the above goods in . . 
. . . ECRU, TERRA-COTTA, GOBELIN BLUE, . . . 
WHITE. OLD ROSE, OLD GOLD 



THEY CAN BE BOUGHT EITHER PLAIN OR STAMPED READY FOR WORKING. 



Silk: Faced Coutnterpane, 

WHITE ONLY 

Four Patterns 72 in. wide. 



FOR SAMPLES, ADDRESS 

THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG COMPANY, 

PHII.ADEI.PHIA, NE'W YORK, 

BOSTON, BALTIMORE- 

XORONXO, CANADA. 

(94) 



OUR NEW FAST COLOR 

(Xlash pUPse Tw^ist, 



IS A BEAUTIFUL ARTICLE 

FOR KNITTING OR 

CROCHETING 



]V[o9ey purses, M 



and particularly desirable for all Em- 
broidery and Fancy Work, where shape 
and firmness are required. 




Sent on receipt of 50 Cents -Postal Note or Stamps. 



WORK DONE WITH OUR 

WASH PURSE TWIST 

WILL RETAIN ITS SHAPE. 




DOUBLE PURSE. 



HALF OUNCE SPOOLS-PRICE 50 
CENTS PER SPOOL. 

(See cut.) 

Made in all desirable colors and 
black. See that you get the rvhite 
spool — there are many imitations. 
Our Purse Twist is remarkably 
smooth, lustrous and makes beautiful 
pur.ses, bags, etc. Our Purse Twist 
will wash without loss of color. 



Sample of what can be done 
with our Purse Twist. 

This Is a very pretty design and 
is not too difRcult to make. 

One color of silk may be used, 
or a judicious combination of two 
or more shadeswill producea rich 
effect. 

For knitting purses see the rules 
in our book, "Art Needlework," 
described on another page. 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co. 



<95) 



Testimonials on 

Waste Embroidery Silk. 

It is no exa§;geration to say we have THOUSANDS of testimonials in favorof this 
Silk. The following, lately received, will suffice to show how ladies regard it. 



Mount Pleasant, Pa. 
I have now used several ounces of your waste embroidery silk, and am so well 
pleased with it that I have given your address to a dozen or more ladies. 

Trinity, Tex. 
Seeing a package of your waste embroidery silk, a lady friend had, I was so well 
pleased that I sent for two packages, which I used and was delighted with. 

Bfookville, Ind. 
Having used six ounces of your waste embroidery silk, I can recommend it to any 
body as a flrst-class article. 

Onslow, la. 
The silk which you sent was received, and suited better than any other brand ol 
embroidery that I have ever used. 

Winchester, Va. 
I have ordered several boxes of your waste embroidery, and also sent you several 
customers ; we were all very much pleased with it, and liked it better than any we had 
ever seen. 

Clinton, Ky. 
I am so much pleased with your waste embroidery that I cannot content myself 
with any other. Have told all my lady friends about it, and think you will get several 
orders soon. If they use it once, I am sure they will never use any other brand. 

La Porte, Ind. 
The two ounces of your embroidery silk mailed me a few days ago have been 
received, and I deem it due you to say that the silk is all or more than"you claim for it. 

Waterloo, Ind. 
I write again to order some more of your waste embroider}' silk ; I have already 
ordered eight ounces and it has given universal satisfaction. 

Jesup, la. 
Received your waste embroidery silk some time ago and was very much pleased 
with both the quantity and quality of it. 

Cannelton, Pa. 
I was so well pleased with the embroidery silk that I received from you, that 1 
now write for another ounce. 

McAdensville, N. C. 
Was very much pleased with the ounce of embroidery you sent me ; find li better 
rbr crazy patchwork than other silks I had been previously using. 

Memphis, Tenn. 
Having used several packages of your waste embroidery silk, I find it answers for 
crazy quilts better than the regular skeins. 

Mayfield, O. 
I have used a package of your embroidery silk and it is really remarkable ; the 
quality and variety of colors for such an extremely low price. 

Detroit, Mich. 
Your waste embroidery received ; was very much pleased with it ; containing all 
bright colors, just what I wanted. 

Brownsburg. Ind. 
Your floss was received some time ago, and gave great satisfaction, both to myself 
and my lady friends who have tried it. 

(96) 




FIFTH AVFNUF HOXEMv, 

MADISON SQUARE, NEW YORK. 



The Largest, Best Appointed, and Most Liberally Managed Hotel 

in the city, with the Most Central and 

Delig'htful Location. 



A. B. Darling, 
Charles N. Vilas, 
E. A. Darling, 
Hiram Hitchcock. 



HITCHCOCK, DARLINQ & CO. 



THE SOLAR RAYON 



/S A COMBINA TIONSUN OR LAMP SKETCH- 
ING CAMERA FOR BOTH PROFESSIONAL 
AND AMATEUR ARTISTS. 

It will successfully enlarge any small picture to any de- 
sired size ; it will reduce any large picture, and will sketch 
from nature. 

It is operated with either Sun or Lamp Light. No 
negatives or chemicals are used. Send for a catalogue, 
giving a complete description of it and containing many 
testimonials from artists now using it, 

I>oia*t you forget to mention this B. & A. Catalogue. 

Here is our address : 

JENNE CAMERA MFG. CO., 

FORT WAYNE, IND., V. S. A. 

WHAT IS YOUR ADDRESS? 

(9) 



DBS. STJIBKIY & P^Li: 



I TREATMENT BY INHALATION g 



TRADEMARK ., REGIS I EK^D 



For Consumplion 
Asthma . . 
Bronchitis 
Dyspepsia 
Catarrh . . 
Hay Fever 
Headache. 




For Debility. . . 
Rheumatism. 
Neuralgia . . 
All Chronic. 
. . .and . . 
Nervous . . 
Disorders . 



1529 A-rcti Street, F'h.ilad'a. Pa. 



••The Compound Oxygen Treatment, ' Drs. Starkey & Palen, No. 1529 Arch 
Street, Philadelphia, have been using for nearly a quarter of a century, is ascientific adjustment 
of the elements of Oxygen and Nitrogen jiiagnetizeri, 3.ndL the compound is so condensed and 
made portable that it is sent all over the world. 

"COMPOUND OXYGEN" being taken into the system, the Brain, Spinal Marrow, 
and the Nerve-Ganglia—" Nervous Centres "—are nourished and made more active. Thus the 
Kountain Head of all activity, both mental and physical, is restored to a state of integrity, and 
the nervous system, the organs, and the muscles all act more kindly and efficiently. 

When " Compound Oxygen " is inhaled, the heart has imparted to it increased vitality. 
That organ sends forth the blood with more force and less wear to itself; the vital currents leave 
on their circuit new deposits of vital force in every cell of tissue over which they pass, and return 
again to the lungs for a new supply. This is a rational explanation of the greatest advance 
medical science has yet made. 

Otfice Patients are imder our personal inspection and care, visiting the office daily, or as 
frequently as their cases may require. We have a corps of physicians, including ourselves, of 
large and varied experience, in constant attendance. Call, see, and judge of ihis treatment by 
inhalation. Consultations FREE. 



Drs. Starkey & 
Palen have the 
liberty to refer 
to the following 
named well- 
known persons 
who have tried 
theirtreatment: 



f|| Rev. Victor L. Conrad, Editor Lutheran Observer, Philadelphia. 
Rev. Chari.es W. Cushing, D.D., Batavia, N. Y. 
Hon. Wm. Penn Nixon, Editor Inter-Ocean, C\\\cago, 111. 
W. H. WoRTHiNGTON, Editor New South, Birmingham, Ala. 
Rfv. A. W. Moore, Editor Centenary, Florence, S. C. 
Mrs. Ella R. Tennant, Editor Tennant' s Home Magazine, Marietta, Ga. 
Mr-;. Mary A Livermorf, Melrose. Mass. 
Judge H. P. Vrooman, Quenemo, Kansas. 
Hon. W. W. Schuyler, Easton, Pa. 
Mr. Frank Siddall, Merchant, Philadelphia. 

EuwARD L. Wilson, 833 Broadway, New York, Editor Philadelphia Pho- 
tographer. 
J. CoEB, Casablanca, Morocco. 
(acob Ward, Bowral, New South Wales. 
K. FuGiTA, Barato, Sappora, Japan. 

And thousands of others in every part of the world. 



•'COMPOUND OXYGEN i^ »^e title of abook of two hundred pages, which 

gives to all inquirers full information as to this re- 

Itsnodeof Action and Results, markable curative agent, and a record of several 

hundred surprising cures in a wide range of chronic cases— many of them after being abandoned 

to die by other physicians. Will be mailed-free to any address on application. Read the book. 

DRS. STARKEY & PALEN, 

1529 Arch St., Philadelphia, Pa. 




TIE OLDEST! 



TESTIMONY 
OVER 50 YEARS. 



IDE BEST! 



All FAMILY and PERSONAL LINEN should be INDELIBLY 

MARKED, and nothing is so Reliable and 

SATISFACTORY as 

PAYSON'S INK. 

E^stablislied in 1834. Xlie name of PAVSOBi'S has been a 
•• HOITSEHOI^O WOIcn " for over half a century. 



A single letter even saves confusion in sorting clothing and often prevents loss. 



4®" Sold by all Druggists and Stationers in the United States. If your dealer does not 
keep it, send 25 cents for a bottle, postpaid, to 

A. L. WILLISTON, Mfgr., Northampton, Mass. 














fmurnvmok 



^s:^'!M:!ii!!J& 



i^^^MW^^^^^rai^^M 



